tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-89391727140703921842024-03-13T11:18:44.354-04:00ForestApps Blog...A chain saw applications and safety forum for professional and occasional operators by Tim ArdForestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.comBlogger157125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-51187378366121597252021-07-08T16:03:00.003-04:002021-07-08T16:03:35.394-04:00One Hand Sawing<p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">One Hand Sawing</p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 8px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">A Tim’s Tips YouTube Episode</p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 11px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 12px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 9px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">By Tim Ard - Forest Applications Training, Inc.</p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 11px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 12px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 11px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 12px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 11px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 12px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 11px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 12px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Quite often I am asked this question…</p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Are Top handle chainsaws, or lighter weight chainsaws, designed to be operated with one hand? My answer is usually this -<i> No manufacturer sells a one handed chainsaw. </i></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Now days however, there are several small pruning chainsaws with a rotating saw chain that are effectively for one handed operation. I guess in my thoughts they can be very useful, low cost tools, as long as the operator understands the risks. Without proper position of body parts these tools can produce major surgery. </p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">In other terms - if you put your hand in front or beside the tool while you’re cutting (holding a limb to be cut) you increase your chances of coming in contact. It does appear that most of them have added guards or deflectors in the kick-back and push-back areas of the rotating chain. That’s good news…</p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">However position of your body parts is the key to maintaining a safe work environment with these tools.</p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">The chainsaw for most common cutting work required in <i>Tree Care, Logging, Storm Debris</i> and <i>Firewood</i> for example, the equipment is much different. It’s heavier, more powerful and is designed for two handed operation/stability.</p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">For many years the highest laceration incidents with chainsaws were effecting the left hand. The left leg was second in cuts reported. Some were from reactive forces causing loss of control but it’s my theory that many were from position, or lack there of, and probably a mix of fatigue thrown in. The operator is tired/fatigued and comes in contact with his or her arm, hand, leg, foot, head or torso. </p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">When you hold a chainsaw one handed it’s just a matter of time, in my experience, before the incident occurs…. Why do they have a top handle then, it fits your hand perfectly it seems? </p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">One story from a professional friend who had an incident with a top handle professional saw. It was right at a 100 degree day. He was working out of a bucket truck removing a limb from a large pine tree. He admits he was tired and yes, he admits he was one handing the chainsaw, in his right hand, to reach a higher limb. His position was extended, the saw bar tip contacted the limb, it kicked back, or the limb rebounded against the saw bar and rotated the saw in his one hand allowing the saw bar and chain to come back over his right arm. Cutting it deeply to the bone.</p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">The design concepts of top versus long rear handle is this. When you place your hands on a long handle saw the weight when lifted, almost entirely, goes to the left hand holding the front handle. </p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Because of the balance points of the top handle versions two handle positions, the weight load is very evenly applied to both arms/hands when its lifted. This configuration still allows reach of your extended arms but maintains better control for less arm and body fatigue.</p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">S0, for years manufacturers (and I ) have been preaching the importance of two handed operation of chainsaws. I hear just about every week at training workshops the effects of one handed or loss of control operator incidents. Stories of past incidents of their person, family or coworker come up in conversations often.</p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">My challenge to you - homeowner, firewood, arborist or logger. If you operate a chainsaw with two handles, USE BOTH HANDS.</p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Accidents are <i>Un-Planned Events</i> folks. It can happen to any of us if we are not constantly planning!</p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">My final and very important finish to this ONE HAND SAWING monolog is this….</p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">I see chainsaw operators on Social Media and TV all the time using chainsaws one handed. (and without proper Personal Protective Equipment - PPE) Maybe you are a seasoned operator and have done it right many, many times. But those watching and learning from your experience in the media may not have the same skill set. We are all teachers. Future saw operator/operations are picking up techniques from you that can change their lives - positively and negatively. </p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Please take the time for important planning and show others correctly. </p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 16px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">There is a fine line between production and safety. Let’s consider the fine line….of one handed sawing.</p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 11px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 12px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 11px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 12px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 9px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Tim Ard is President and Instructor of Forest Applications Training, Inc. Rome, GA</p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 9px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 11px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 9px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><a href="http://www.ForestApps.com">www.ForestApps.com</a></span> email comments to <a href="mailto:info@ForestApps.com">info@ForestApps.com</a> </p>Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-16163879152263264412019-11-12T09:26:00.002-05:002019-11-12T09:26:56.140-05:00More Time?<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 16px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-kerning: none;">More Time?</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">by Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">During workshops, as we begin hands on saw work, I am often asked what to do if a mistake happens…what do you do then? Can you cut it again? Repair your mistake? Sometimes the answer is yes but usually I explain it this way. Does it take more time to be precise or does it take more time to do something poorly?</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We tend to think it’s faster and more productive to do things without taking a lot of time. We hesitate to step back and form a plan or study a subject or situation before we start. I have found that not doing this, and not being precise, usually ends in a poorly accomplished result and quite often a lot more time to complete the task.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Cutting down a tree, <i>Falling on the West Coast and Felling on the East</i>, is deemed to be a task that requires some knowledge, a little experience and a good plan to accomplish it safely and successfully. This is very true. When it comes to a tree cutting operation at home or on the job, I often hear that one says they will contact a professional company (which is very smart) or they say we don’t really do the dangerous stuff, we don’t cut them down, we just cut them up after they fall. Both of these tasks still rely on some planning and a decision to call someone or don’t attempt it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I hear stories weekly of saw use, whether cutting down a tree or cutting one up, that didn’t sound like it went too well. Something was damaged or someone was injured involving a chainsaw. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">How important is being precise or poor with cuts made with a chainsaw? Why is it so important our notch cuts meet, our back cuts are on the right level, the hinge is sufficient and our position or escape plans are in the right place or direction? Does it take more time to be precise or at least have our actions follow a recognized plan/technique? </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I listen to saw operators tell me they have to hurry, the boss expects me to be quick, I don’t have time to slow down and look at everything, sharpen every time it’s dull, or clean the chainsaw every time I finish a job. If I did, I would never get anything done. It’s sad people fall or grow into this poor attitude. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Does it take more time to be precise — do things right? What if we practiced doing things right, correctly. Would we get faster at it, more efficient at doing things precise? In accomplishing this we do need a baseline for our efforts, something to measure against. That’s where training comes into the picture.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">We have all been trained by someone or trained through our own experiences, the seat of our pants so to speak. Soren Eriksson use to say that experience is our best teacher but we have to realize there are two types of it — Good and Bad. Better to learn the good on your own and the bad from someone else, it’s often less painful that way.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">So, what’s the problem with learning correctly and practicing it, forming experience from it, and getting better at being precise? Does it take longer to make two cuts meet, to cut straight and level. If we learn the way to best approach the task and practice, it will become our ability — our experience.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In closing…</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Over the years I have asked groups to raise their hand to these three questions.</span></div>
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<li style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">How many of you have used a chainsaw in the past few months?</span></li>
<li style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">How many of you have had any type of hands on training in chainsaw operation?</span></li>
<li style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">How many have read an owners manual from your chainsaw manufacturer?</span></li>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">It’s my opinion that the key to being productive and maintain safety is to have a good base to build upon.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Except for question number 1, I rarely see a hand go up. What this illustrates is many times operators haven’t been exposed to the easiest, most productive and safest techniques. What are you practicing?</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><i>Tim Ard is president and lead instructor of Forest Applications Training, Inc. A training company specializing in chainsaw operations and safety. For more information visit </i><a href="http://www.forestapps.com/"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><i>www.ForestApps.com</i></span></a><i> or </i><a href="mailto:info@ForestApps.com"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><i>info@ForestApps.com</i></span></a><i> to discuss available training.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">© 2019 Forest Applications Training, Inc.</span></div>
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Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-85551521709303568052018-11-19T08:47:00.002-05:002018-11-19T08:47:23.596-05:00Keep an Eye on the Notch<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Keep an Eye on the Notch….</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">by Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In baseball they say to keep your eye on the ball. In shooting sports and hunting you keep an eye on the target. These are focus areas of importance to succeed in the endeavor. Well, in chainsawing, whether felling a tree or working up storm damage, the trick is keeping your eye focused on the Notch…</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">A couple definitions….</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Notch is a face cut on a tree trunk to directionally fell it or a relief cut made in a log or limb to control weight or movement when removing debris. It could be simply a bar width cut or kerf made as a relief cut or it could be a 140 degree pie opening. We usually try to open the Notch 45 to 70 degrees. The Notch allows the hinge wood to flex and control without breaking, pulling or splitting fiber. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The hinge wood is a <i>predetermined</i> strip of fiber [not just cutting till something moves] left behind the Notch attaching the two sections of wood together, i.e., the tree to the stump or the limb to the trunk during movement. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Now that some definitions are established, let’s discuss the issues of keeping an eye on the right place. In real-estate they say location, location. In sawing it’s position, position, position! If you don’t put yourself in the right position when approaching the tree or work it’s impossible to see what you want to cut, or maybe it’s really you cant see what you want to leave. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Conclusions….</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Any time you are planning to control the tree, stem or limb, you must have a clear plan before you begin a cut. You should have a plan configured of Hazards/Obstacles, Leans, Escape, Hinge and your determined back cut and tools to use. The similar is true with cutting storm damage or debris, focusing on weight, pressure and binds by identifying Hazards, Side, Up or Down, Back or Forward and select a technique to control it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">To accomplish the task to plan-the hinge is your friend. So, whether simply cutting from the back or bore cutting to establish the hinge, your focus, your eye, must be aligned with the Notch to make sure you parallel it to maintain your planned hinge. Move your position to make sure you can Keep an Eye on the Notch!</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Tim Ard is President and Instructor of Forest Applications Training, Inc. Visit our website at <a href="http://www.forestapps.com/"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">www.ForestApps.com</span></a> or email <a href="mailto:info@ForestApps.com"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">info@ForestApps.com</span></a> for more information.</span></div>
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Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-42305878250014110752018-09-05T09:47:00.003-04:002018-09-05T09:47:22.659-04:00Maybe It's Me...<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 16px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Maybe It’s Me….</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">by Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Maybe it’s just me, but have you ever noticed that humans tend to gravitate toward stuff? We concentrate on technique and tools more than why they were invented? We form opinions as to how things and why things are better without knowing all the options…</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In a recent workshop I was told. “I think this notch works better” by a participant. He was referring to what’s called the common notch. “It’s always worked good for me” he says. Now the tree he picked to cut was a fairly large oak leaning over a road. (We were taking these down to daylight the road so it would dry out. It was shaded and wet most of the time.) It had about 3ft of forward/head lean and had about 6ft of right side lean. The notch he placed was about 45 degrees open and didn’t have any by-pass or Dutchman at the apex of the notch. A well established common notch. He back cut the tree and left a reasonable amount of hinge/holding wood attaching the fall. He then retreated to his escape path. The tree moved forward about 3ft and then rolled over right and missed the target he had placed by about 10ft. When I asked the group what do you think happened to make it miss so far? Someone quickly said, “Well, I knew that tree would need to have a rope in it to go there.” Referring to the proposed landing target.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Was the issue a problem with tools or technique or a mechanical malfunction? I feel it was a planning misunderstanding that was caused by a mechanical limit. Yes, there was not a rope in the plan but that wasn’t the missing link. A mechanical limit was reached, the notch closed before weight could be redirected and the hinge/holding wood was compromised, broken and the tree took off into its weighted lean. You see the notch allows the hinge to work its control of the situation. So, it was an opinion that turned into a learning about planning to select a technique.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The issue began with a lack of planning to understand the leans of the tree. We grab the rope, tool or machine because that’s the way to do it. Where did that experience come from? From someone else? Probably it was not formed by your plan on that specific tree project.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">My goal with training workshops is to standardize the planning process. Whether falling trees or cleaning up storm damage, there are simple plans that can work for any situation and any chainsaw operator. A plan can require special tools and special experience in many applications. However, the plan is the key and should be the key to continuing with a task or project. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Having a knowledge of a planning process is as important as speaking the same language in a work team. A good example of the importance of standardizing the planning process… A past workshop participant shared with me that he only wants to work around operators who have completed one of our workshops. I asked what he meant by that statement. Let me paraphrase what he said in reply. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Let’s say you and another person pulled up on a down tree across the road after a storm. You didn’t have any large equipment on site, just two chainsaws and hand tools. You had no idea of each other’s experience or training. The other operator begins cutting limbs and brush around the site to get to the main trunk of the tree. When he cleared to the tree he stops and stares at the situation. Shakes his head and wonders where to begin. He plans to just cut it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">You look at the situation at the point he plans to cut and quickly formulate what your plan would be. 1. There are no over head or ground hazards. 2. It could have side movement/roll toward me. 3. The compression side is on top, it’s going to move down toward the ground as I relieve the fiber from the bottom. 4. There is a high potential for back pressure to stick my saw bar as I undercut. 5. I plan to use a notch on the top side of about 60 degrees to allow the hinge of about .5” to control the weight to the ground before I sever all the fiber to complete the cut. You continue to the next 10 cuts. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The other operator makes his first cut. The tree trunk starts to go down closing the kerf and pinching his saw. He borrows your saw to cut out his saw. The tree rolls toward him but he frees his saw and is on to the next cut. No hurt, no foul I guess but, he proceeds to repeat the same situation four more times. “Next time I will wait on the back hoe to get here”… he says.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Which operator would you want assisting your project? Is a planning process important?</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The author Tim Ard is president and lead instructor of Forest Applications Training, Inc. For more information on chainsaw application plans and workshops visit our website at <a href="http://www.forestapps.com/"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">www.ForestApps.com</span></a> or email us at <a href="mailto:info@ForestApps.com"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">info@ForestApps.com</span></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">® Copyright 2018 Forest Applications Training, Inc.</span></div>
Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-10894568529150201872018-02-12T10:45:00.002-05:002018-02-12T10:45:40.185-05:00The Bore-ing Back-cut…<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-kerning: none;">The Bore-ing Back-cut…</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">by Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Once you have completed the first four areas of information on your felling plan it is time to choose a back cut to fall the tree. You may choose to simply start from the back of the tree and cut to your holding wood/hinge or you might bore-cut through the tree, set up your hinge then cut backwards to release the tree. Yes, there are several other configurations of cuts that could be made to conclude the process. You could cut the good side, then the bad side, from back to hinge or hinge to back. You could bore and circle the tree with the back cut. But, what is or are the advantage(s) of a bore-cut over the simple back cut?</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">When asked the question of the advantages of the bore-cut I usually explain that the only negative to the bore-cut, if it is one, is the understanding of the reactive forces, especially the one of kickback. Really, if you understand that reaction, there are no negatives, only positives. Knowing how to begin the cut with the lower portion of the bar tip and quickly burying the tip in the process, eliminates the issue when you think about it. So, let’s list some positives…</span></div>
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<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">It reduces the chances of the tree trunk barber-chairing in heavy forward lean.</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Allows for a planned hinge/holding wood dimension to be better achieved. </span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Makes it possible to cut larger trees with multiple position (side to side) cuts.</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Improves capabilities of using a shorter saw bar length on larger trees.</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">In smaller back leaning trees it gives the ability to place wedges before setback.</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Controls the release of the tree when there may be widow makers or broken tops.</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Gives more escape time from trees with vine issues.</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Offers better footing and escape from trees in steep or slippery terrain.</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Reduces fiber pull on the stump by allowing more accurate hinge completion.</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">It offers the ability to locate hollows and rot areas in the tree trunk.</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Enables better controlled release of the tree should there be traffic or people issues.</span></li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-kerning: none;">Eliminates some issues with tops swaying or wind effecting the release of a tree.</span></li>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">There are probably more as I sit and think and there are also several advantages working with bore-cuts on horizontal storm damaged trees. The Bore-Cut is not so boring… but very useful and productive.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Check out other articles on <a href="http://www.forestapps.com/"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">www.ForestApps.com</span></a> and <a href="http://www.forestapps.blogspot.com/"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">www.ForestApps.Blogspot.com</span></a> And if you are interested in finding out more of having Forest Applications Training, Inc. take part in your chainsaw training programs or presentations contact us at <a href="mailto:info@ForestApps.com"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">info@ForestApps.com</span></a> .</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Copyright 2018 Forest Applications Training, Inc.</span></div>
Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-55433675952271392252018-01-23T16:04:00.001-05:002018-01-23T16:04:08.984-05:00Saw Savvy...<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 15px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">In workshops all across the country one thing seems to be similar. Participants at some point in the workshop always say “My saw doesn’t start and run like yours”. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Over the years I have operated many model saws and other two-cycle machines of several brands. I can honestly say in my findings that all of them, if understood and maintained properly, usually will outwork this operator. I’ve learned most issues arise from operator controls and maintenance or lack there of. It’s not to say the operator causes every issue but most of the time a lack of attention and or understanding is a major contributor. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I have a workshop available that covers some of these aspects in a unique tear down and inspection process. I want to highlight a few of the very important areas with this writing. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">A two-cycle engine is simply an air pump. It needs air flow to mix with fuel, compression and spark to convert this mixture to usable energy. The air filter is important in maintaining this air flow. Fuel mixed properly, gasoline with lubrication, adjusted to the right amount of air is critical to efficient run, power and longevity. Engine compression creates power by manipulating the air and fuel flow. Compressing, squeezing and confining to make sure the power is harnessed and carried to the crankshaft and on to the crankshaft attachment. Ignition spark divides the intake from the exhaust. Exploding at the perfect time to turn fuel and air into burned gases. Efficient combustion is the by product of a well designed and tuned engine. If the operator doesn’t have a basic understanding of these principles it’s difficult to maintain and operate to the equipment’s potential. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">So in the Troubleshooting Workshop we look at how the air filter may restrict air flow. How proper fuel mix can make or break an engine. How lubrication is utilized and how the carburetor is adjusted and is susceptible to dirt, water and too much oil. What causes an engine to seize up. What external attachments like bar and saw chain can effect. How can starting procedures effect the run and life of the equipment. What is a fast idle position? </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The workshop can be accomplished at your location. Open to16 participants and requires 4hours of class time. It is all hands-on for the attendees, intertwined with lecture. A chainsaw operator with a little Saw Savvy from a Trouble Shooting Workshop will be an operator with less equipment issues, better safety awareness and improved productivity. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The author is President and Lead Instructor for Forest Applications Training Inc. a company specializing in safety, education and applications of the ChainSaw. More information can be acquired at <a href="http://www.forestapps.com/"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">www.ForestApps.com</span></a> or email <a href="mailto:info@ForestApps.com"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">info@ForestApps.com</span></a> We would appreciate the opportunity to present to you and your organization.</span></div>
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<span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; font-family: "Apple Color Emoji"; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">©️</span><span style="font-kerning: none;">2018 Forest Applications Training Inc.</span></div>
Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-43032240784252058262017-11-01T11:46:00.001-04:002017-11-01T11:46:34.375-04:00Training Difference...Training Difference...<br />By Tim Ard - Forest Applications Training, Inc.<br /><br />If you were to ask people what is the difference in experience and formal training, they would probably say, “Experience is the best training you can have.” Getting out and doing it is definitely going to teach you things about the task at hand. Soren Eriksson always said that “experience is the best teacher.” However he always finished that statement with,”experience is a good teacher but you have to remember there are two types of experience, good and bad. You want to learn the good on your own and the bad from someone else. It’s usually a lot less painful that way.” <br /><br />When it comes to storm cleanup involving chainsaws, and some other chainsaw operations too, it is important we approach it with a basic knowledge or awareness and add to our experience level as we approach the task. To do this safely and successfully any activity should start with a plan. <br /><br />So let’s break this thought process into segments. Knowledge and training....<br /><br />Knowledge<br />It’s my theory that knowledge is acquired over time. It’s the level of experience that you are holding on any given subject. It could be to a level of understanding or it could be in application. I may have a full understanding of how to fly a plane but I’ve never tried to take off or land. Once I apply that knowledge/understanding then I can consider myself a pilot. That’s where training comes in to play. <br /><br />Training<br />My thoughts here are that training is the process you go through to obtain and master knowledge. It could be the time lapsed between a known desire, the formulated plan, and the eventual execution of the plan to achieve success in the project. In other thoughts, training is often a process that begins with a plan and then continues until the plan is successful. I need to consider myself training until I can do a task without finishing below my planned expectations or success. Training is often where a teacher or mentor is brought in to speed up the process. Someone or something to offer a better or clearer understanding of the knowledge and can guide us through the application process to limit errors in the trial. Without a guide of some form we are learning through trial and error. <br /><br />In equipment operations like the use of a chainsaw, regulations promote that the first form of training you should have is reading, understanding and applying, the manufacturer’s operators manual. The manufacturer has compiled this information for the operator for an understanding of design, application and safety. This provided manual should be your first knowledge training. <br /><br />I ask groups about every week in chainsaw workshops to raise their hand if they have seen and read an owners manual for the equipment they run. I often never get a raised hand. Why do you think this is? Some say they don’t know where the manual is but most, as with many things, feel we already know that information. We have been using or have observed someone using the tool and that’s the best training we can get. <br /><br />The next step might be to acquire a supervisor or mentor to help us achieve a clearer picture of the applications of the tool. Oh, that’s expensive.... so we need to get that part of training actually doing a job with the tool. The supervisor or mentor can overlook the job and correct and apply the tool properly in the task. This training process doesn’t cost extra... less expensive. Or is it?<br /><br /><br /><br />Off the job training- are there any advantages?<br /><br />Formalized or off the job training for equipment operators can have its advantages. It enables a planned focus and direction of the knowledge information for the hands on application. The environment is created instead of trying to learn in a situation requiring meeting a deadline or satisfy a customer or supervisor. <br /><br />Let’s think again about the reasons that people don’t read the operators manual from the manufacturer. Maybe some don’t like to take time to read. They’re busy with lots of work today. Next it could be there is a lot of information they feel doesn’t apply. Their knowledge is deemed to be above the information in the manual. Some just find it boring. Finally, some people are just not interested in being an equipment operator. They are uncomfortable with the equipment or have no desire to use it at home or on the job. <br /><br />With many topics relating to adult learning, I believe a 99 to 1 ratio in the presentation may be an important part in obtaining useable results. It breaks down to 99 percent motivation and 1 percent technique. Often the presenter or supervisor just doesn’t impress the student. A lack of common sense approach by the instructor will turn a student off quickly. Then there’s always the presenter or supervisor that is a know it all. Their way or the highway.... As Jerry Clower used to say, “I can tell they are educated above their intelligence.”<br /><br />I’d like to discuss with you a program for you or your equipment operators. Forest Applications Training, Inc. has workshops formatted for results in chainsaw applications, zero turn mower applications, saw chain maintenance and very unique program in two cycle troubleshooting for the operator of handheld power equipment. <br /><br />Contact us today at info@ForestApps.com or call 770-543-9862 to discuss your training program. <br /><br />Copyright 2017 Tim Ard Forest Applications Training, Inc. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad<br />Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-60279369578539889752017-10-17T08:55:00.001-04:002017-10-17T08:55:30.415-04:00<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: "Helvetica Neue"; font-size: 14px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-kerning: none;"><b>Storm Sawing Thoughts…</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;"><i>by Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Whether a Hurricane, Tornado or Fire Storm, the past few weeks have been a record setting challenge across the country.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">I want to share some thoughts about cutting snag trees whether wind broken or burned. This can also apply to control of cutting horizontal trees or limb removal from wind broken standing trees.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Make sure first to complete your plan. Hazards/Obstacles, Leans, Escape, Hinge, and then consider some of the below for your Back cut. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">The hinge to control your tree or limb must be flexible. This means it must be able to bend to maintain control of the tree, log or limb movement. If it is too thick or rotted it can cause splitting or the fiber will break out not giving accurate control and operator safety.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Take for instance a standing tree snag that has a broken top. Whether wind broken or burned, the fiber is generally compromised. This situation can or could also be found on a dead, decaying tree. If you plan to wedge or rope pull, you do not want to try to move the stem until the hinge can be considered flexible. I see operators or read reports where chainsaw operators, start a back cut on a snag, place a wedge and drive it hard into the back cut kerf. If the hinge is too thick this just causes vibrations and splitting that can be very dangerous. Many times they repeat this two or three times on that same snag and shake the tree until something breaks and falls.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Other resistance can be found in front of the hinge in the way of a face notch that closes too soon or a by-pass (Dutchman) that disrupt movement of the hinge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Consider what you really want the tree or snag to do is to lift or move in the direction you choose without any resistance. If the hinge is set thin enough (approximately 10% of the wood diameter) to act as a fulcrum, the wedge or rope will have much greater success without so much shaking, barber chair and possible operator injury and or loss of control.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">If you don’t understand these mechanics you should seek hands on, on site training before putting yourself at risk.</span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Always wear all your Personal Protective Equipment! Always a good idea to review your manufacturers equipment operators manual before beginning your project. </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Tim Ard is President and Lead Instructor of Forest Applications Training Inc. Information can be obtained by website at <a href="http://www.forestapps.com/"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">www.ForestApps.com</span></a> or contact by email at <a href="mailto:info@ForestApps.com"><span style="-webkit-font-kerning: none; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">info@ForestApps.com</span></a> </span></div>
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<span style="font-kerning: none;">Copyright 2017 - Forest Applications Training, Inc.</span></div>
Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-11719561028537397522017-01-23T14:20:00.001-05:002017-01-23T14:20:04.244-05:00Slide Instead...Slide Instead…<br />by Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.<br /><br />A tree is down and now the real work begins. We have to cut it into manageable pieces to be able to either move it, chip it, or sell it. In this process are a magnitude of issues that can effect our safety and profit.<br /><br />Where to cut is formed by our need to move/remove the cut wood pieces. Planning a required length for either hand movement or machine. Sometimes our decision is dictated by market or work area requirements. Firewood length, chip length or environmental concern length are all necessary size requirements. Whatever the size needed, at the point you make the cut, a plan must be developed. <br /><br />A decision has to be made asking yourself these questions. When I make this cut and sever this piece will it move? Side to side, up and down or back to forward? We must anticipate movement to decide how to control it. We decide where to cut and will it move, then next is what technique to cut the piece. Sometimes just a straight kerf cut to sever the piece. Sometimes a notch and hinge to slow reactions and pinch pressures. Sometimes offset cuts reduce movement and eliminate pinch and bind. <br /><br />Two very useful techniques are a simple kerf and or a slide notch.<br /><br />The Kerf<br />The kerf is the term used to describe a cut made into a log or limb. Making a cut with a saw into the log or limb produces a kerf. The kerf is normally about 3/8” wide. The depth of the kerf is regulated by our depth of cut.<br /><br />There are really only two types of kerf’s used when working with a saw. A straight kerf and a combination of kerf’s we call a notch and back cut. <br /><br />A straight kerf will close quickly under pressure and force fibers to bind a saw bar and chain on the compression side of a log or limb. On the tension side of the log or limb a straight kerf will work fine to reduce bind as long as a kerf or notch and hinge on the compression side allows movement without closing or fiber splitting.<br /><br />The Slide Notch<br />The slide notch is produced by simply turning the bar and chain parallel to the limb or trunk on the compression side. Now slide the bar up or down the surface making an opening in the bark and the fiber. This shallow slide into the fiber will work as a notch opening, of about 90 degrees. Then as the kerf cut is made from the opposite tension side, the fiber is allowed to work as a hinge. The notch and hinge can even be made toward the side of the piece to direct the limb or trunk in a more sideways direction. In either position the slide notch works much better than a simple kerf cut. A slide notch can be made just as quickly, if not faster, than a straight kerf cut and eliminates the chances of compression side bind.<br /><br />Notch Thoughts<br />The notch is used in our work to allow the wood fiber to bend, relieving pressure as the wood piece is severed. Because tree trunks and limbs grow is circles, adding growth rings annually for strength while maintaining flexibility, a notch is necessary to keep the pressures from splitting the fibers as they move in a desired direction. You can illustrate this by just making a kerf into a limb piece and then applying pressure to the limb. The fiber will split off instead of bending in the desired direction. If you make just a small mark (slide notch) on the limb on the opposite side from your kerf, when pressure is applied, the fiber will work as a hinge into that notch opening. This relief notch is reducing the fiber separation and splitting that occurred in the previous. <br /><br />Operators sometime use notches to try to prevent binding in a limb or log. The notch opening is placed deep into the piece with thoughts to reduce binding on the compression side (the side closing on your saw bar). It’s not the notch however that reduces the pinch it’s the hinge wood just behind the notch that eliminates the pinch. A deeper notch simply moves the pinch point not the pinch.The depth of the notch really only moves the compressing pinch point closer to the middle of the limb or logs diameter. This will actually pinch your guide bar with more pressure than a shallow notch. Several kerf’s will do a better job than a notch to reduce the pinch possibilities in pressure situations. The best however is a hinge (or holding fiber) to keep your guide bar and chain from becoming stuck. It can definitely help the operator read the anticipated movement with less bind possibilities. <br /><br />SO, next time you plan to clear a storm situation cutting a tree trunk or limb, try a Slide Notch Instead. <br /><br />Remember, when using a chainsaw an important part of your plan is to read and fully understand the manufacturers operation manual and to always wear proper Personal Protective Equipment when using a chainsaw. <br /><br />A great way to learn how these techniques work in action is to attend one of our ForestApps Storm Sawing Workshops. Check out our website at ForestApps.com for more details or contact our office at info@ForestApps.com or call 770-543-9862.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad<br />Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-11685295657994469112016-02-01T14:06:00.002-05:002016-02-01T14:06:08.095-05:00Three Day Experiences...<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; min-height: 13px;">
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<b>Forest Applications Training, Inc.</b></div>
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<b>Three Day Workshop</b></div>
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By Tim Ard, President/Instructor Forest Applications Training, Inc.</div>
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Why so much time? Why three days? Is there really that much information to cover?</div>
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Our Three Day Workshop, we call Storm Sawing, is the ultimate training system for the novice and full-time chainsaw operators. It is <b>review</b> for some and <b>new</b> for others but in every aspect it is <b>chainsaw application education</b>. Time spent in establishing a planning process in use of the chainsaw. </div>
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Some people are afraid or hesitate to drive a car on major highways. Some people are afraid of flying in airplanes. Some people have been using a chainsaw since they were old enough to walk with it, others are scared to pick one up. In most things to be comfortable our experience level establishes our comfort level.</div>
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Experience - a great teacher!</div>
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Soren Eriksson explained it this way in many of the first chainsaw training workshops I attended. Experience is the best teacher but you must remember there are two different types of experiences — Good ones and bad ones! Some you want to learn on your own, bad ones from others as it is a lot less painful that way!</div>
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Chainsaw manufactures have done an awesome job over the last 90 years from their experience in producing chainsaws with the latest technology. Making them as safe and productive as they can be. Using feedback from operators like yourselves. Information from well liked experiences and some from known patterns of bad experiences. </div>
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My chainsaw training experiences have been formed in a third of that time, a little over 30 years. My 30 years of chainsaw, out of about 60 years of life, focusing on the safety and productivity of the operators of those manufactured products. I have learned a lot from manufactures’ and operators’ and have attempted to organize all aspects of chainsaw operation and maintenance into a workshop of 18 short hours over a three day time. I can tell you workshops have to be focused, yet very flexible, to accomplish my goal with so many experience levels of operators. However, it is so important to make sure that all those attending totally understand the importance of the results. Results hinge on a few very important key factors:</div>
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<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Time proven teaching techniques and methods.</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Positive organizer and attendee attitudes.</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;">Classroom facilities.</li>
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A training workshop, <b>that gets results</b>, must be well planned and organized in all the above areas. Most of all, have an instructor who can manage it all.</div>
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I’m not going to go through the specific outline, techniques or agenda of the workshop here, that can be found on our website or through discussions with our office, but I do want to give you some of my thoughts as to why our Three Day Workshop is important to overall attendee results. This is a progressive instruction process. It is important to have attended the days in order. However, it is possible to have time between the days. If an attendee cannot make the days consecutively he or she can attend the next higher level class that meets their time schedule.</div>
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Day One</div>
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We are equipped to lecture and demonstrate to a large number (40 to 100) attendees given facilities and cutting site will accommodate. This day is an in classroom lecture and discussion of chainsaw PPE, Reactive Forces, Sharpening, Maintenance, and Planning followed by an outside demo that establishes the process at a tree. Once the tree is felled a discussion of de-limbing, spring pole and bucking techniques are shown and discussed. Attendees watch and learn. This first day is often used to show a larger group what can be learned and invite interest in the smaller attendee hands on day two and three. It can also be a great review day for a previous trained group as well as an intro into day two and three for a new group.</div>
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Day Two</div>
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A group maximum of 15 attendees ( this is 15 max for this day with a preferred 10 to 12 ). This smaller group is then hands on with planning and felling trees looking at concepts of the hinge and felling cuts. It must be size limited for safety but also for site, terrain, time and sometimes weather limitations. All attendees must be focused on each tree felled. Every tree is different, ranging from size, to leans, as well sometimes dead or alive, so it is important the whole group plans and focuses on every situation.</div>
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Day Three</div>
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A group of 12 to 16 is preferred. De-limbing and Bucking the felled trees of day two. This day is where most firewood and storm cleanup operators really want to be. Pressures and binds of storm and cleanup can be challenging and a lot of work. Organizers sometime think you should be able to go right to this day to start. I can tell you that the site must be set up properly with the felled trees to really be able to safely conduct this training. When it is set up properly and the attendees work in teams the positive results multiply rapidly. </div>
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Attendees not only feel they work safer but also a lot more productive after going through the progression of the three days. I have tried several times to start with a group that doesn't have a focussed planning process, equipment that is not performing well and operators not understanding a hinge — the results are then very unpredictable.</div>
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In Conclusion…</div>
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Training to cover big numbers is often times initially less cost per person but is not always the most profitable for your overall budgeted results. Maintaining a safe work environment and maximizing productivity is what makes training dollars, as well as your organization, profitable isn't it? </div>
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You know — the bottom line is experience isn't it? Safety is effected by experience? Productivity is dependent on experience and effected by safety is it not? How can you then limit a training experience and expect maximum safely productive positive results? </div>
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All that is really required training for a chainsaw operator is to read and understand the chainsaw manufactures operation manual. How many people you know have read it? How many have applied and purchased the PPE, maintenance and sharpening tools listed in those publications and have followed the falling, de-limbing and bucking techniques found in those pages? This finding is a very good example of why a formal training program is needed for any equipment operation.</div>
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Training is a long term investment, especially with tools like chainsaws. Whether you contact Forest Applications and schedule a workshop or you prefer another training company or you organize a training program yourself. Think about experience is a progression not a single event. An experience, to be results training, must make an impression on the attendee that is first applicable, promote productivity and most of all structured to promote and maintain safe work habits in the operation environment. It should be a life changing experience. </div>
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Our training programs, nor any others, can turn you into an experienced operator in 1 day or 20 days. The workshop’s or program can only give you a valuable experience to continue to build upon… Choose and Invest in Your Experiences Wisely.</div>
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Thank you to all those who have attended our <b>Experiences</b> in the past years and those we hope to see in the future— <b>Good Sawing….</b></div>
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Contact Forest Applications Training, Inc. at info@ForestApps.com or visit www.ForestApps.com for more information.</div>
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Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-84946814433394823522016-01-22T08:21:00.002-05:002016-01-22T08:21:18.163-05:00Stump-Shot or Not....<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 8px; line-height: normal;">
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<b>Stump-Shot or Not...</b></div>
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By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.</div>
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You've made an almost picture perfect face notch in the tree trunk. Right on dimensions and directed perfectly for a spot on placement of the tree in the drop target area. Now for the back cut to finish off your task. </div>
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You level up the saw bar with the proper height on the back of the trunk, ready for the final cut. But wait, what’s your thoughts on where the back cut should be height wise in relation to the V of the face notch. Should it be higher than the V, or lower? And if so, how much should it be higher or lower? One inch, two inches or three inches. </div>
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Stump-Shot or in other terms the correct raised offset level of the back cut on a limb or tree has been tossed around for as long as there has been saw work. The Stump-Shot has been always used in felling, and sometimes large limb removal, to keep the severed piece from rebounding backward toward the operator. It is kind of a <i>physics thing</i> that when a tree or limb is severed it tends to fall (unique concept huh). When it falls the center weight of the stem seeks its attachment point and the butt end comes backward during that action. This backward action is believed to be limited by the Stump-Shot. The higher back cut leaves a ledge to limit the stem from coming back during that rebound action. It locks the butt so to speak on the Stump-Shot so it’s less likely to come back. </div>
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In reality this action of butt rebound starts when the felling hinge is broken or no longer controls the fall. This happens in timing with the action of the face notch. If the notch is closed the hinge breaks. The vertical position the stem is in during the falling process when the hinge control is lost causes the butt rebound to be greater. In the fall of a virtually straight tree, if the face notch is 45 degrees this takes place at a position of half way to the ground. If the notch is less that 45 or the notch is by-passed (back corner of the notch does not meet exact), it could take place sooner in the fall. Either way some amount of control is lost in the tree fall when the notch closes or resistance breaks the hinge. So, the Stump-Shot it is believed to assist the hold of the stem in position on the stump during the fall.</div>
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Another way to think through the process is to think what would keep the stem attached to the stump longer and possibly more predictably? If the face notch were open to 70 degrees (the Open Face technique) or even more, then the stem would stay attached until such time as the butt rebound scenario is not a factor. This more open notch, allowing the hinge to remain in intact longer, retaining control of the fall until the tree or limb is to a desired position on the ground. If the tree hangs on something the hinge is most likely still holding. Butt rebound becomes little or no factor.</div>
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But why not just use a Stump-Shot to make sure? Three things come into play.</div>
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<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;"></span>To be sure of the hinge dimension you plan to control the tree or limb movement with is to have the back cut level to the face notch. Often limbs and trunks grow with angled fiber, like a flared trunk at ground level or a limb collar up the tree. Think about if you have fiber growing at 30 degrees and you consider the level of a notch and the higher level of the back cut. Your planned hinge thickness between those two levels, because of the angled fiber between, could be reduced unknowingly between those two points. Knowing this scenario the only way you can plan/calculate an exact hinge thickness or width is with your back cut level to the notch.</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;"></span>When the tree or limb starts to fall with a Stump-Shot it has to separate fibers vertically to begin the hinge breaking process. The Stump-Shot can cause splitting of the log and loss of control if the hinge is not to a bendable dimension. If the hinge is thin at the Stump-Shot level it can cause the tree to twist or set down during vertical fiber separation losing direction steering control. When the hinge is level to the notch the fiber is more apt to break from the back to the front without pulling fiber from the stump or log. If the side weight tries to break the hinge it is usually better supported by end grain fiber of the stump.</li>
<li style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 11px; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;"></span>The Stump-Shot doesn't keep the tree from spinning or going off toward side weight and coming backward. If contact with another tree or limb takes place, after the notch has closed and hinge is broken, the control of the tree is not maintained by the Stump-Shot. It can still butt rebound. Smaller trees can roll off the Stump-Shot quickly and still butt rebound. </li>
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So in conclusion there is nothing wrong with a calculated Stump-Shot in your plan, but just as with any part of a plan or technique, understand its limitations and its advantages. Success and safety is applying the right tool or technique from the plan bag and being totally aware of its purpose and or function. </div>
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The <b>Hinge is Your Friend!</b> Make sure your notch allows the planned hinge to work properly during the fall and your back cut type and level maintains your ability to establish your hinge and move safely to your planned escape area as soon as the tree or limb begins to move. </div>
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Always check your Chainsaw as per the Manufacturers Operators Manual and wear Personal Protective Equipment when working with a chainsaw in any operation.</div>
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For more information on formulating a work plan for you and your chainsaw — visit <a href="http://www.forestapps.com/"><span style="line-height: normal;">www.ForestApps.com</span></a> or contact our office at 770-543-9862 or email <a href="mailto:info@forestapps.com"><span style="line-height: normal;">info@ForestApps.com</span></a> to arrange a training program for you or your organization. </div>
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Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-64281922747333405712015-08-31T15:42:00.001-04:002015-08-31T15:42:09.998-04:00Hard to Start....<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-stroke-width: initial; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 16px;">
<b>Hard to Start…</b></div>
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by Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.</div>
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A few changes to the newer saws regarding starting procedures have made old habits into new problems. You might want to do the unusual and read your operator’s manual to find the answer to many complaints from saw operators as to their saw being hard to start. </div>
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I’ve noticed in training workshops there are those that have trouble starting the chainsaw. Some of the troubles can be related to the frequency of use. They simply forget the sequence of events to start the saw between operation times or they are unfamiliar with the saw brand or type. Some problems in starting however are because of the misunderstanding of the switch and starting procedures. We often overlook the need for basic instruction to prevent frustration - Like look at the manual or familiarize the operator with basic controls. If we are never taught correctly it definitely leads down a frustrating path. </div>
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I also find that operators think it takes pull after pull of the starter cord to finally fire up the saw. I watch operators pull until totally exhausted - 20 pulls and still no running saw. I have adopted a rule of thumb in my starting procedures that works well for me… If you pull 7 times and it hasn't fired and or is running, <b>there is something wrong</b>. This helped me to develop the following process below and it’s usually very close to the instructions from the manufacturer’s operation manual. Also, make sure the unit is properly adjusted. An improperly adjusted carburetor can make for a non productive and possibly unsafe operation. A simple 5 step run check can be found on our website <a href="http://www.forestapps.com/">www.ForestApps.com</a> or check the run procedures in your manufacture’s operators manual. Know how your equipment should run.</div>
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ALWAYS use Proper Protective Equipment when starting and or operating a hand held piece of power equipment.</div>
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<b>If the engine has not been started (cold engine) - </b><span style="font-size: 11px;"> </span></div>
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First make sure the proper mix of fresh fuel is in the tank and the air filter is clean. If the unit has an OFF/ON switch make sure it is in the ON position. Newer units may not have an OFF position. The engine is killed by momentarily pushing the switch to OFF. This makes it impossible to forget to turn the switch on but remember the engine could start by just simply pulling the starter cord.</div>
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Apply the Chain Brake. Make sure the cutting attachment is clear of all people and objects.</div>
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Pull out the CHOKE lever. Or move the control lever to the CHOKE/START position.</div>
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Assume the proper starting position, holding the saw firmly. </div>
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Pull the starting cord until a slight pop it heard or the engine tries to run (no more than 7 pulls).</div>
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Push in the CHOKE lever or the control lever up one position to the fast idle position. </div>
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Pull the starting cord again till the engine runs (no more than 7 pulls). If the engine starts in fast idle, simple depress the throttle trigger and release it to idle down. You don’t want to leave the engine idling fast with the chain brake engaged but don't release the chain brake with the engine in fast idle as the chain will spin. Slow the engine first by a quick press and release of the throttle trigger.</div>
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Release the chain brake and you're ready for work.</div>
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<b>If the engine is warm and has been started (or you are unsure) - </b></div>
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First make sure the proper mix of fresh fuel is in the tank and the air filter is clean. If the unit has an OFF/ON switch make sure it is in the ON position. Newer units may not have an OFF position. The engine is killed by momentarily pushing the switch to OFF. This makes it impossible to forget to turn the switch on but remember the engine could start by just simply pulling the starter cord.</div>
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Apply the Chain Brake. Make sure the cutting attachment is clear of all people and objects.</div>
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Assume the proper starting position, holding the saw firmly. </div>
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Pull the starting cord (no more than 7 times), the engine should start and idle. </div>
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If it doesn't start, pull out the CHOKE lever <b>and push it back in</b> or the control lever down and back up one position to the fast idle position. (Do not pull the starting cord in the CHOKE position of a warm engine. It will flood the engine and make starting even harder).</div>
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Pull the starting cord until the engine runs (no more than 7 pulls). If the engine starts in fast idle, simple depress the throttle trigger and release it to idle down. You don’t want to leave the engine idling fast with the chain brake engaged but don't release the chain brake with the engine in fast idle as the chain will spin. Slow the engine first by a quick press and release of the throttle trigger.</div>
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Release the chain brake and you're ready for work.</div>
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I<b>f it doesn't start with the warm start procedure go back to the cold start procedure above.</b></div>
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Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-27201544010371898612015-03-04T11:06:00.000-05:002015-03-04T11:06:14.601-05:00The Future!<div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px;">
I have been "building on the basis" the past few years (now that I'm aging more every day) that the key to a great training system is to pass it along to key people to supply the knowledge to the masses. With the increasing need of safe, efficient chainsaw operators in storm cleanup, recreational trails, parks, Tree Care, forest management and fire control - employers and organizations are striving to build efficient and cost effective training. In the onset, many are finding without utilizing simplistic training formats that information becomes overwhelming and is not used in the workplace and especially not passed along in the workplace efficiently. I feel this is likely because of the comfort level of the student to instruct and the lack of time planning to maximize the training to co-workers.</div>
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I have been involved in preparing instructors in chainsaw applications, safety and maintenance for over 30 years. Not bragging, but I have had some effect on just about every instructor out there in chainsaw training companies today. Those that have chosen to use the simple instruction techniques that Soren Eriksson instilled in me, have all done an awesome job in reducing chainsaw industry accidents and incidents across the country and are profitable doing it.</div>
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These instructor techniques are available to key chainsaw operators and communicators in your organization and or company. </div>
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I would like to discuss with you how we can maximize chainsaw operator safety and productivity in your future! Concepts and cost can vary.... don't hesitate to contact us today. info@ForestApps.com</div>
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Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-42383559001647115872014-05-17T16:02:00.002-04:002014-05-17T16:02:52.923-04:00Slow Down to Safely Speed Up...<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Slow Down to Safely Speed Up…</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">by Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Have you ever noticed the teamwork that takes place around a worksite when the chainsaw fires up? Everyone wants to help and it seems that supervisors and onlookers all want everyone doing something immediately to get the job done. This has been the storm cleanup scenario for many years. Get R Done….</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I can remember watching and listening years ago to Soren Eriksson at logging operations. He is a master at watching how equipment and ground workers operate in production situations and be able to increase their productivity and function in short order. He used to count how many times the wheels on the machine rolled backward and not forward. He would discuss the steps taken up and down the tree limbing and bucking of the logs. “Sometimes you can slow down to increase production and maintain a safe worksite”, Soren would say, “They need to cool the operation down.” Locate the bottleneck and back up from there. You can quickly figure out where production is being lost and safety is being compromised. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I have noticed the same is true with storm debris cleanup. I’ve observed some crews that put as many saws running as possible when they hit the storm site. Others have a saw or two running, and three, four or five people running back and forth with limbs and wood pieces to clear the area. Most of the time the saw operator can’t even watch the cut he or she is making. They have to constantly be looking where the pullers and other equipment is located in their work area. Equipment is used to lift or hold the trunk or limb material for the saw operator to cut it without binding.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The job gets done - but can it be improved for safety and productivity? Let’s think through the players and processes…</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Equipment on the Ground</b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">What is the job of a skid steer or backhoe in the cleanup operation? What is its design advantage in the process? The equipment is designed to move, or remove, material from the site to a staging area, chipper or haul truck. The equipment’s purpose is not to hold limbs and logs, if so, it is an expensive wedge. I may be proven wrong, but I haven't seen an operators manual for this type of equipment to date that states that anyone should be on the ground next to it while it’s operating either. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Chippers at the site, along with haul trucks, should be positioned to minimize work site loading effort and not cause extra work or bottlenecks. Placing a chipper or haul truck in the wrong position makes those back tracks and reverse roll counts go higher. You don't want pullers walking around debris or objects nor changing directions with limbs etc to deliver them to the chipper and so the same with a truck or staging pile.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Chainsaw Operators</b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The chainsaw operator is the key element in debris cleanup after storms. If the chainsaw operator is trained properly, he or she doesn't need large equipment or limb pullers to do their job. Equipped with a chainsaw of proper size and sharpness, a wedge and a hammer or axe, the sawyer can make small pieces of a tree in short order. It’s not necessary to have debris pullers holding limbs or clearing areas around the worksite while the chainsaw operator is cutting. A six foot chainsaw operator with a 20” saw can fall and cut someone <b><i>eleven feet away </i></b>in the work area. Give adequate time and distance in the work area.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">It’s just too much for a chainsaw operator to have to concentrate on pressures, binds, rolls and movements while having to constantly be monitoring people and machines in the area.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Brush Pullers / Swampers</b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The Puller’s and Swamper’s are hard workers in the operation of clean up. These tasks are so important to moving the smaller material from the site to the staging area, chipper or haul truck. Their efficiency relies on the chainsaw operator to size the material properly and reduce the weight factors for easy handling. These workers are not there to hold material for the saw operator nor are they assistance for releasing stuck saws. Their function is cleaning up smaller material, what they do best!</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>We’ve outlined the players now what should the play plan look like?</b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The site layout is going to be the changing factor or variable at every storm site. Some sites will be so small the larger equipment and chipper will be limited in ideal location or utility. Some storm debris will be small and scattered, some will be large trees and stacked in multiple piles. Some will be combinations of… </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Sometimes a tractor or skid steer can be unloaded and open the area or pull the trees off the trail or roadway and the chainsaw operations can take place at another time. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Often the chainsaw operations must section the trees for the equipment to move them because of area logistics and or too much weight and length.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Sometimes pullers can simply drag the debris from the site to a staging area without large equipment or chainsaw operations.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><b>Timing the Phases</b></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Slowing down or Cooling down the planned work at a storm site can mean more efficiency and productivity. How can we do this in the situation where there are multiple trees or a large tree? Massive debris piles?</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The objective is to clean up the mess and or get the road open for traffic or access. To <i>time</i> the process in our planning is the way to achieve maximum productivity without sacrificing safety. <i>Timing</i> doesn’t mean to stop watch the process, although that may be a great way to fine tune the process eventually, it simply means to separate the players to allow them to do their individual tasks efficiently and safely.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Separation may be two minutes, half a tree, it may be two trees or it may even mean two days. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">If everything is ideal it would render something like this in planning. It is imperative to maximize this plan to train the players adequately. Shoddy equipment operations and or maintenance will prove to break down the efficiency of the plan.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">1. An equipment operator, chainsaw operator and a puller team would approach the storm debris site and thoroughly assess the area. First for safety and hazards. This may be the job of one experienced supervisor or safety leader/planner that has extensive knowledge of the teams work skills and equipment. Any power line situations are addressed by electric authorities before entering work. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">2. Equipment would be staged and an approach plan should be laid out. This may be solely a chainsaw, haul truck and or chipper. May be the large equipment first.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">3. Chainsaw operator’s then select the starting points taking in to consideration the ability of the pullers, chipper and haul size capabilities. They begin the cutting and limbing process maximizing the knowledge of proper length and weight considerations. Only one saw per work zone until the work is stabilized. Roll over capabilities are neutralized. It is Preferred to work from the butt to tip of the tree to lower higher limbs and stay clear of limb debris. This always leaves an open retreat if logs or limbs roll or shift.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">4. Once the chainsaw operations have created distance from the designated staging area and or chipper, the pullers can commence to move the limbs and smaller logs to the planned areas or equipment. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">5. The larger logs and debris can then be moved by the skid steer and backhoe to the appropriate staging area or haul equipment. Steps 4 and 5 may be reversed according to the site and debris location. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">It looks busy when everyone is standing or moving around the saw operator but having everyone doing what they are designed to do without waiting increases the safety, productivity and gets the job done much quicker.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Slow down and safely speed up your clean up operations!</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">For more information on Storm Sawing Programs from Forest Applications Training, Inc. Contact <a href="mailto:laura@ForestApps.com"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">laura@ForestApps.com</span></a> 770-543-9862 Visit our website www.ForestApps.com</span></div>
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Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-25930148496606027842013-10-23T19:42:00.001-04:002013-10-23T19:42:08.310-04:00What's the best.....What's the best...<br />By Tim Ard, Forest ApplicationsTraining, Inc.<br /><br />Every workshop I hear the same question. I mean every one... What is the best saw out there? What do you think is the best chainsaw made?<br /><br />I usually answer it this way. Every manufacturer makes one or more great models. They have sold a lot of them. Some areas I go are strong in the sale of one brand, in another area a different brand. But, chainsaws do not make chainsaws, people do! I make this statement because it doesn't make any difference how good the saw you have is, or how many have been sold, at some point and time you are going to need a part or service. Understand, people become the important product selection criteria. The people at the outlet/dealership you purchased from must be able to supply the needed info, service part and or repair you need to keep things working. If not, any brand will make a pretty awesome looking door stop. <br /><br />The key element in answering my fore mentioned question is the dealer or outlet for the equipment. Are they knowledgeable to help you make the purchase decision? Is there a selection available to meet your application correctly? Have they made a commitment to the product line and your particular model with parts and service training? Do they know more about the saw model than you do? These things will be more important to you than just the discounted dollar deal you received or maybe even your perceived brand loyalty selection criteria, i.e., Ford vs Chevrolet. <br /><br />So, visit your local saw outlets. Check out the latest and greatest equipment available. Discuss with the personnel and or owner your needs and wants. Ask them to show you their parts on hand for the model you select. Tour their shop and meet the technicians. Have all your questions been answered?<br /><br />Last question... Did they offer you training sufficient for your needs? Do you have a clear understanding of training needed to operate the piece of equipment for specific tasks you have planned? Personal protective equipment covered and available for your needs? <br /><br />If so, Good Sawing!<br /><br /><br />Forest Applications Training Inc. specializes in training and consultation to make sure your purchase, chainsaw ownership and operations are safe and productive. Visit our website then contact us to organize your chainsaw operations and safety training. www.ForestApps.com Email info@ForestApps.com <br /><br /><br />- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad<br />Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-27161877787754544792013-09-02T09:01:00.001-04:002013-09-02T09:01:52.872-04:00Tree Down...Tree Down...<br />By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.<br /><br /><br />The call comes in, or you look across the yard and see an unexpected site. A tree has uprooted and has fallen over in the recent wind. Luckily this one has not taken any toll on structures or fences. It's not even a large, tree so clean up is not expected to be a major task.<br /><br />This scenario is found often in storm cleanup across the country. More and too often, I hear of incidents involving downed trees like this that unexpectedly cause injury to chainsaw operators. <br /><br />Saw chain is given the bad rap in incurring injuries in the cutting process when in reality the operator is not abreast of the possible powers to be In the material being cut. Many times the culprit causing the injury is not the chainsaw but the limb or trunk under pressure. When cut its released rapidly and lifts, flips or flies the material and chainsaw into the operator or bystander.<br /><br />Lets take a look at the tree that's down again. <br /><br />We need to realize that all trees have root systems of some type. Often the root diameters under ground are as large or larger than the first limbs in the crown of the tree. This means that when roots let go or are broken in a windstorm and the tree falls over, the roots still submerged underground may be bent backwards. Like a reversed spring pole, these roots create a lot of lift potential that can surprise the operator sawing or coworkers helping in the area.<br /><br />I've been told many stories of injury taking place when an unknowing operator, simply cutting up the trunk from the top, suddenly is surprised by the tree trunk quickly standing back up to its original position. This movement taking the saw and operator cutting the trunk 20 feet down from the butt with it to 20 feet in the air.<br /><br />One story was not involving a larger tree but a small one. The operator was straddling the trunk, cut the top off the tree, and it launched he and the saw several feet into the air. That makes me cry in pain just to think about it....<br /><br />Make certain to put together a plan on each cut you make on a tree that's down. Is it going to move when you make the cut? Up, Down, Toward You, Away? If you are unable to discern the expected results- don't do it! <br /><br />Trees are powerful creatures when standing and can be powerful when down...<br /><br />Please consider Personal Protective Equipment when working with any saw. Head, Eye, Hearing, Legs and Feet need to be protected. A person is in critical condition in the hospital today that was cutting a limb with a pole saw, the limb came down striking him slightly. He lost control of the situation, fell down hitting his head and has major brain damage. No helmet or other PPE was in use. Please don't take chances with Unplanned Events!<br /><br />Good Sawing!<br /><br />More information, articles and training programs are available at www.ForestApps.com <br /><br /><br />- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad<br />Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-79213739271404436192013-08-13T21:32:00.001-04:002013-08-13T21:32:40.097-04:00Sharp HistorySharp History...<br />By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.<br /><br />One of the first chainsaw sharpening tools I used, besides just a file and handle, was a tool introduced by STIHL in the introduction of their saw chain. The Picco Micro saw chain was introduced in the early 80's and one of the accessory items was a file contraption that had a round file and a flat file in it. The tool was marked with a STIHL logo but I later found out it was manufactured by another company in Germany- PFERD.<br /><br />I was digging through some old boxes three or four weeks ago and found my old Picco Micro tool I used for many sharpening's during my early sawdust days. That sparked the thought process for this article.<br /><br />Several years later, a friend from Husqvarna (at the time) Mike Marshall, left and became sales manager for PFERD USA. Mike called one day and suggested he send me samples of their ChainSharp tool. I received them, used them and found them to do an excellent job on my chains. I remembered the Picco Micro STIHL tool after I saw the ChainSharp and learned the history of the tool. I began showing the tool and found it easy to sell because it met a huge need of the saw operator. Sharp saw chain and proper depth gauge settings in one pass.<br /><br />I've practiced using and explaining the benefits of the tool over the last several years and up to this day have found nothing that performs any better job sharpening my saw chains.<br /><br />This year STIHL introduced a version of PFERD's CSx tool to their accessory line. The tool holds two round files and a depth gauge file. You can easily reverse the tool in your hand to sharpen the left and right cutters. The features of this tool make it even faster to properly sharpen your chainsaw. <br /><br />PFERD is responsible for a lot of Sharpening History with their round files, flat files and chainsaw tools. Their products are branded by STIHL, Husqvarna and other companies worldwide as well as their own PFERD brand.<br /><br />Check them out at your local chainsaw dealer or on line www.PFERDUSA.com <br /><br />If you are interested, www.ForestApps.com has several articles on the site about the PFERD sharpening tools. Also, Forest Applications Training, Inc. offers hands on training programs on saw chain sharpening, maintenance and adjustments using the PFERD tools. Contact us today at info@ForestApps.com or call 770.543.9862. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br />- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad<br />Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-64365302405163442012013-08-05T15:20:00.001-04:002013-08-05T15:20:31.808-04:00Fast Idling...Fast Idling...<br />By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.<br /><br />Starting a chainsaw can be challenging sometimes, especially in the late summer, hot temperatures. Today it's over 90 degrees here in Georgia. I practiced a starting process I was shown that has been working well for me in these hot summer sawing situations. <br /><br />Most saws I'm familiar with have a fast idle position for starting. Placing the controls in this position, when the saw is flooded or just hard to start, will clear most hot starting problems.<br /><br />When starting Husqvarna units simply pull out the choke lever and push it back in to place the linkage in the fast idle position. On STIHL saws, depress the throttle trigger, push the lever down to the choke position. Release the trigger and pull the lever up one notch from choke position. This places the linkage in the fast idle position. <br /><br />Remember - when the saw starts it will be at an elevated rpm. Having the chain brake locked will keep your chain from turning. Then simply tap the throttle trigger to bring the RPM back to idle. Make sure you do this or the centrifugal clutch system could be damaged.<br /><br />I see operators trying to start saws in class that this system always works on. If you forget to take the choke off after the first fire of the cylinder it will usually flood and require pull after pull to clear the situation. If the saw has been running and you choke it, it will require many pulls to clear and start. Using this fast idle technique will usually solve the problem quickly and save many worn starter ropes.<br /><br />Good Sawing!<br /><br /><br />- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad<br />Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-52305952273520755452013-07-31T08:45:00.000-04:002013-07-31T09:01:39.029-04:00Sharp Never Dull<span style="font-size: 18px;">Sharp is Never a Dull Subject…</span><br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">In workshops for many years I have used a large scale cutter tooth to open up discussions on chainsaw safety. It has always been a great icebreaker for my presentations because everyone knows, or believes they do, how important sharpening is to their success with a chainsaw.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Understanding the five cutting parts of a saw tooth helps us to confirm our saw chain will do the job. The real test however, is putting it in the wood. My theory is the cutting rate into the limb or log should be about an inch a second or something is wrong, dull.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">I strongly believe, Theory by Ard, that many of the laceration incidents with chainsaws occur because of dull chain. When an operator pushes harder to make the cut, the chance of loss of control or lack of regaining control increases. When we apply more pressure to the reactive forces of the bar and chain, the management of them is truly risky. So the answer - keeping a sharp chain is never a dull subject in chainsaw operation.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">I know we all consider ourselves chainsaw file efficient, but every workshop I have attendees come up and state they learned something they didn't know by revisiting the basics.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Check out the articles and info on our website on sharpening. A good refresher if nothing else will produce a much more efficient and safe chainsaw experience.</span></div>
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<a href="http://www.forestapps.com/" style="letter-spacing: 0px;">www.ForestApps.com</a></div>
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<br />Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-46982794462711192772013-04-10T10:05:00.001-04:002013-04-10T10:07:53.498-04:00Chain Saw Issues Workshop<b>NEW ChainSaw Issues Workshop</b><br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">By Tim Ard, President Forest Applications Training, Inc.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Forest Applications Training, Inc. is offering a </span><i style="letter-spacing: 0px;">New Issues</i><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> workshop…</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Over 30 years I have travelled this great country, </span><i style="letter-spacing: 0px;">from sea to shining sea</i><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">, leading workshops on chainsaw safety and productivity and will continue as long as I am able.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">We have decided to offer a new one day </span><i style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Issues Workshop</i><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> that is composed of answers to the many questions I receive during the years of training. I think it will complement your chainsaw operations in a way that is </span><i style="letter-spacing: 0px;">unimaginable</i><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> until you sit through it. I say sit, it’s more like work...</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Everyone considers the safety issues of chainsaw operations in training of employees and personal use. PPE, Planning and Cutting Techniques - but seldom look to the details of why many chainsaw incidents occur. In listening to saw operator statements over the years, it is blatantly evident that the following workshop topics are some of the root cause. These issues are our new workshop’s focus. The 6+ hours are not comprised of felling, limbing and bucking but more toward getting your equipment ready and remaining ready during your chainsaw tasks. It will not replace our other three days of training offerings.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">I am convinced that many safety issues with operators are caused by improper saw selection, lack of attention to or ability to maintain the saw and or chain efficiently, and thinking that all of these are someone else’s responsibility. </span><i style="letter-spacing: 0px;">This workshop is not designed nor intended to be filled by bodies but rather by key people who want to make a difference in chainsaw operations, safety and productivity.</i></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">For you or your organization, the Issues Workshop is covering the basics and the advanced details, </span><b style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><i>hands-on</i></b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> and </span><b style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><i>how to share</i></b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> it:</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">1. Saw Selection for Multiple Tasks</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">2. Understanding Saw Guide Bar and Chain Combinations</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">3. Reducing Down Time Maintenance</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">4. Chain Sharpening - hand tools and mechanical grinding</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">5. Fuels - Mixing and Understanding Two-Cycle Gasoline and Chainsaw Adjustments</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Class Size - 12 Maximum</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Work Time - 6+ hours</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">2 Saw Chains for Filing (may be new or partial used)</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">This workshop is not brand specific and you are encouraged to </span><b style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Bring You Own Saw</b><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"> (BYOS). We will be looking at your tools and ability to maximize your efficiency with them.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">The Chainsaw Issues Workshop is great for Power Equipment dealers to organize or host for customers and especially for chainsaw operators and shop personnel of any organization, city, county and government operations. For more information -</span></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0px;">Contact Forest Applications Training, Inc. for questions, pricing and booking </span><a href="mailto:Info@ForestApps.com" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="color: #2100ad; letter-spacing: 0.0px; text-decoration: underline;">Info@ForestApps.com</span></a>Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-77092595557064077462013-03-18T10:06:00.000-04:002013-03-18T10:11:38.693-04:00One Track<div style="font: 14.0px Helvetica;">
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">By Tim Ard, President Forest Applications Training, Inc.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">I was viewing a training video recently from another industry and something really struck home with me that applies to chainsaws and training there of. It stated that our minds are truly one track. We can only process one thing at a time. A brain in thought (in process) cannot process another thought unless the first process is completed or rejected. If we are given a detailed list of information for a task we should make notes without trying to process it as we write it down. If we attempt to think it through (process it) as we are receiving the information we will undoubtedly miss some of the needed important information.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0px;">What does this mean? If we are trying to think and process a plan in our head and something or someone else interrupts the process all processes stop until resumed or replaced with the later. I’m confusing myself now….</span><br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">We need to make sure instruction, or supervision of a task, with an individual or crew allows for thought processing. If we do not have a clear shared plan before beginning, trying to do everything by command during the task, the brain is not allowed to function properly. No one learns and the outcome is questionable. Trying to train while attempting a production situation, on the job training, may not allow for rapid retention of the processes.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">In a discussion with a supervisor group recently, they all agreed that it definitely takes longer to bring a new employee up to speed, even on basic tasks, if you are trying to do so in a production environment. Achieving productivity while taking the time to educate on the task is simply hard to do. This is even sometimes true when just moving workers between crews or even to new crew locations with experienced workers.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">It’s tough to realize productivity in a new given task. We come up with an imagined goal of what a task should take in time, let’s say like sharpening a twenty inch loop of saw chain, but we don’t weigh in the factors of how a basic understanding of the task is reflected in the efficient use of the sharpening device to accomplish the task. We think a tool is going to be the answer to productivity, in reality it is the operator’s understanding of the projected result that makes the tool faster or more efficient. Production (Production=Efficiency Accomplished Safely) is expected without first building the basis of the task through education/training. We try the tool or technique without reading the manual for proper set up nor understand the design of the tool to maximize its function and accomplish the task.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Training programs (a good one) with maximum results are usually well timed and implemented to the participant’s ability to retain the information. Repetition assists retention outcome, taking time to repeat information enough to maximize results. We all wish we could be proficient at any task we desire to overtake in short order, but some tasks just take longer to master. In rushing the process, it is often clear the basics are overlooked, thinking we are above that plateau of experience. We then have to back up several times to retain the information to move along forward again.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Back to the top - We are told to do something without first given the ability to think through the why’s and how’s of the operation and or task. We fail because of it or the tool or technique is thought to be insufficient to the task. We are back to being told what to do to improve productivity, and we cant think through the reasoning because our brain can’t process it all in a given amount of time.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">So, we need to train our brain to understand the basics, repeat as needed to retain the information and then move on…. This must be the reason we are not allowed to finish grades one through twelve in six years. Our one track brain needs one track information and it takes “One Track Training Time” to get us there.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Test Question - Do you consider on the job tasks during productivity a training program?</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Try One Track Training and compare the results….</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">© 2013 Forest Applications Training, Inc. </span><a href="http://www.forestapps.com/" style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span style="color: #2100ad; letter-spacing: 0px;">www.ForestApps.com</span></a></div>
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<br />Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-44664854625948063792013-01-21T11:11:00.000-05:002013-01-21T11:11:05.388-05:00Sharp Point<h2>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sharp Point Update...</span></h2>
by Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Way out here in California... with not a lot to do over the weekend, I drove to Dixon, CA to take a look at the progress of Sharp Point, LLC. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sharp Point, LLC is a chain maintenance system company that has been working with tree care and logging chainsaw users for about three years. They have a very automated system for sharpening saw chains for these organizations. You collect your chains, USPS or UPS them, in their prearranged shipping packs and drop them at the shipper, or have them picked up. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">SP receives them, cleans them, repairs them, and puts an edge on them that only a factory could match. The complete system is the key to this working in the field and your key to increased production reducing cost. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">They explained to me the next step is doing the same process with complete saws...? Leasing your favorite saw brand model... interesting!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If you are a large user of chainsaws and saw chain in your application Sharp Point LLC could be for you.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Send me a message with subject line <i>Sharp Point </i>to info@forestapps.com if you're wanting to know more.</span><br />
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<br />Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-3297912511575888642013-01-13T13:41:00.001-05:002013-01-13T13:45:02.593-05:00Idling to Save...<div style="font: 14.0px Helvetica;">
<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Idling to Save…</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Since cooler weather has come upon most chainsaw operations this year, I find age old idling problems again to still be a major issue. Consistently, every class and operation observed, at least a couple saws are idling too high or will not stay running at idle.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">When a saw idles at too high RPM it creates issues that are just not good...</span></div>
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<li style="font: 12.0px Helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">If a clutch and saw chain doesn't disengage at idle, the operator is put into a position that could end in a loss of control and laceration. Idle should be set low enough to disengage the clutch and the saw chain should stop all rotation.</span></li>
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<li style="font: 12.0px Helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Excessive heat and wear is created on the centrifugal clutch and drum as the clutch shoes and springs slip inside the drum. Especially when the chain brake is applied.</span></li>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">When a saw will not idle…</span></div>
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<li style="font: 12.0px Helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">When the throttle is released the engine dies and has to be restarted. Often distressing the operator and taking concentration off the work at hand.</span></li>
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<li style="font: 12.0px Helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">The starter system and rope receive a lot more stress and wear than necessary.</span></li>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">There are several steps to adjusting a chainsaw carburetor and you should consult your owners manual or your local dealer before making any adjustments, but the first step to adjustment can be accomplished without a screwdriver.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Is my chainsaw adjusted correctly? Follow these simple checks…</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Assuming - Fresh, properly mixed fuel in tank. Engine will start. Air Filter is clean.</span></div>
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<li style="font: 12.0px Helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Air filter clean, start and warm up to run temperature.</span></li>
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<li style="font: 12.0px Helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Run up to full throttle. The engine should approach top no load RPM and level out. RPM should not continue to climb. We call this level RPM engine sound a <b><i>high speed flutter.</i></b> If RPM continues to climb the H screw adjustment is too lean.</span></li>
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<li style="font: 12.0px Helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Reduce throttle. The chain should stop any rotation and creep. If rotation continues adjustment to the T or LA screw is necessary.</span></li>
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<li style="font: 12.0px Helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">With the saw idling, apply chain brake and roll the saw over, up and down. It should continue to idle without significant RPM change or dyeing. If idle doesn't continue, the L setting is too rich.</span></li>
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<li style="font: 12.0px Helvetica;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Release chain brake and depress throttle quickly. The RPM should return to high flutter without any hesitation. If hesitation is existent, L screw adjustment is too lean.</span></li>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">These five will troubleshoot for you if adjustment is necessary. Remember, you don’t need to have a screwdriver to adjust your saw. If you know its out of adjustment, you can take it to someone who is trained to use one. If your saw does not pass the five - choosing not to adjust - can also have negative mechanical and safety outcomes.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Make sure your saw is <b>Idling to Save</b> and don’t forget to wear your PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) when checking or operating your chainsaw.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Good Sawing, Tim</span></div>
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<br />Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-52967075894697369132012-12-01T10:03:00.001-05:002012-12-01T10:06:46.379-05:00No Adjustment<span style="font-size: 14px;">Very Soon No Adjustments</span><br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Recently I had the opportunity to sit through a very interesting presentation at one of Stihl’s dealer training activities. Twenty years ago, I would have never imagined that one day a laptop would replace a screwdriver to tune up a chain saw…</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; letter-spacing: 0px;">To check the run history and current fuel air adjustments, newly released and future two-cycles, will be connected to a laptop to read its electronic brain (so to speak). Simply plug it in and it will tell you several hours of the engine’s running history. Fuel mix, ignition spark, heat history, all can be displayed right on your computer screen. This information allowing the technician to analyze the past running, or failure, and adjust the engine for future performance.</span><br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">These electronic screwdriver controls will help keep ethanol fuel (some effects) and other run situations from taking down your favorite two-cycle power plant. It will keep a running engine in tune to its peak performance during all your sawing, cutting and trimming tasks.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">If you think James Bond stays up with the latest technology -- check out some of the latest available to you at your local chainsaw dealer.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;">Good Sawing!</span></div>
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<br />Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939172714070392184.post-84467737003818713692012-06-26T09:28:00.001-04:002012-06-26T09:28:07.541-04:00It Begins...It Begins...<br />By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.<br /><br />The summer thunderstorm and hurricane season has began again this year with marked devastation in the southern states. Heavy rainfall with high winds from the tropical storm Debby has lingered over the Florida Gulf area for several days and the effects have been felt northward for many miles. In the west, Colorado has been experiencing some of the hottest temp days in years accompanied by thousands of acres being devastated by wildfire. Those directly in the path of these disasters feel there is little left to the future other than many hours of clean up and rebuilding. Life continues, it begins again...<br /><br />Somewhere, everyday, damages to life and property from storm and fire take place. Time after time the first tools to be placed into action are chainsaws. When the equipment is put into action, are plans in place to orchestrate this work process? Has training been previously conducted? Has an action plan been reviewed and incident prevention revisited before - It Begins...<br /><br />Organized disaster relief has already made efforts to pre-train their workers if done properly. They know where their expertise resides and they concentrate on these properly placed skills to maximize their effectiveness and maintain an incident free work process. This organization and training must take place before the storm hits. It's documented that the cleanup operations, over time, have taken more people to the emergency rooms than the storms and fires themselves. <br /><br />Sawing safely begins with a plan not the pull of the rope...<br /><br />It Begins with...<br />Personal Protective Equipment<br />A chainsaw properly applied to the task<br />Understanding of the saw's owner's manual<br />Knowledge of the saw chain<br />Organizing saw supplies and accessories for operation<br />Plan and analyze the work area<br />Plan each cut<br />Communication with other workers<br />Know your limits!<br /><br />Train for the future, don't wait till work begins.<br /><br />Make certain you and your work team have had the proper beginning...<br /><br />Sawing safely begins with a plan not the pull of the rope...<br /><br />Tim Ard is President of Forest Applications Training, Inc. Find out more at www.ForestApps.com before the storm. <br /><br /><br />- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad<br />Forestapps Blog...http://www.blogger.com/profile/03767679483177560485noreply@blogger.com1