Your Chainsaw and Old Fuel

Your Chainsaw and Old Fuel

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

I recently was contacted by a friend who has taken on distribution of some new fuel additives that are designed for today’s fuels and their effects on small engines. We met and he went over some of the formulas that B3C Fuel Solutions has to offer. They focus on the moisture attracting properties of Diesel Fuel and Ethanol Enhanced Gasoline on the market today. How ethanol enhanced effects fuel and oil mixtures. They are concentrating now on the small engine, especially the chainsaw. This is where I come in.

I am cornered consistently by training attendees with these questions and others regarding proper fuel -

How long does gasoline today stay fresh in my saw or fuel can?

Today’s fuels are produced to burn cleaner and to reduce emissions. They have ethanol, detergents and other additives to accomplish this. Fuels today are not only more environmentally friendly but also better clean your internal engine parts for longer engine life. The addition of higher concentrations of ethanol to gasoline makes it a positive for volatility, cleaning and performance. However, with storage, drops stability and offers too many scrubbing bubbles, so to speak, for good chainsaw powerhead health. This evaporation of the positive’s limit the shelf life of your fuel in your saw or fuel can.

Small engine manufacturers are recommending to not store fuel without stabilizers for more than 30 days.

What does ethanol do to my chainsaw?

Ethanol will run great in a chainsaw if the carburetor metering and fuel supply parts are designed to regulate and contain it. It causes very little problems if you don’t allow it to sit or start to breakdown in your system.

Ethanol can be corrosive to aluminum, magnesium and because of the water collection properties, even some steel and other metals. It’s an excellent solvent, that because of its characteristics and water absorption, separates or even will inhibit the gasoline from mixing with the 2-cycle engine oil you are trying to blend with it. Ethanol can soften some fuel lines, dry out rubber parts and carburetor diaphragms and when it evaporates, leaves a slimy sludge and varnish that can stop up the best-designed fuel and valve trains.

So - without fresh gasoline mixed, without stabilizers, without water management, without proper carburetion and or adjustments- you most likely will have trouble.

Will my chainsaw run on E85 gasoline?

Your chainsaw, in its current state, will not run E85. It will not successfully adjust and live long with ethanol blends higher than E10 without parts upgrades.

I’ve never had any problems before. Why do I need to be concerned now?

The problem with ethanol-enhanced fuels is not so much the current blends but those coming to a pump near you soon. It’s going to be a battle between your auto fuel and your small engine fuel supplies and storage. All this is going to happen quickly as the push to E15, E20, E30 and E85 blended fuels are brought to market. Yes, the ethanol effects of engine corrosion, adjustment problems, water, etc. exist with E10 but it will all be magnified and multiplied with future blends.

Now there may be hope! (Back to my first paragraph…)

B3C Fuel Solutions has two products that can assist with today’s ethanol woes and they are working diligently to hold future fuel issues at bay.

Mechanic in a Bottle and Ethanol Shield from B3C –

• · Fix the fuel system & deep clean the carburetor without removal, even on non-running engines
• · Revitalize old fuel and delicate fuel system components safely
• · Cleanse power robbing carbon deposits from the engines internal components
• · Stabilize the fuel to ensure quick starting

Ethanol Shield from B3C –

• · Remove water to prevent Phase Separation
• · Protect the rubber & plastic components from ethanol
• · Stabilize the gasoline to ensure quick starting and prevent stale fuel

Fuel Test Kit from B3C –

• · A simple swab test that will tell you what condition your fuel is in.

My Test

I had an old saw that my father had for years. He passed away five years ago. I know he didn’t use the saw for at least a year before he passed. I had it stuck back on a shelf in the shop. Long to short, the fuel in the saw’s tank was over 6 years old. You can see in the photos what it looked like when I poured it into a glass for my test of Mechanic in a Bottle.

The fuel was almost black in color, stunk to high heaven, and I was amazed to see that it had no signs of water in the tank. Most likely no ethanol was in the fuel tank. Well, since there was no visible water, I added three tablespoons to it. You can see the water in the bottom of the glass.

I first added one ounce of MIAB to the fuel and stirred it up. It seemed to absorb a little of the water quickly and the fuel color lightened slightly. I decided to add the whole four ounces of MIAB to the glass since the instructions said I couldn’t overdose the fuel. I also figured it would have to have a pretty good initial dose of MIAB to absorb all the water I added.

I covered the glass and let it sit for almost 48 hours. When I returned, I stirred the solution, which had really lightened a lot in color, and it only seemed to have just a little amount of the water left in the bottom of the glass. When I stirred it up, it appeared the water disappeared and when allowing it to just sit about ten minutes only a small spot of water seemed to reappear. I was amazed!

Then the supreme challenge – will the fuel run in a chainsaw? I took my saw, started to make sure it ran ok. Cleaned the fuel out of the tank, then poured in the old gas solution. I did try to not pour any of the water residues into the tank. There wasn’t much left in the bottom of the glass.

I pulled, it started, and I ran it for a couple minutes or so to make sure it had pulled the old fuel from the tank. The adjustments seemed to change slightly but the saw ran just fine.

Pictures and video are downloadable at https://public.me.com/timard/OldFuel

Now that’s some extreme old fuel and I wouldn’t recommend trying to revitalize gas mix that’s that old. But I was amazed that the old gas with the MIAB would run. I’ve experienced fuel, not nearly that old, to be dead as a doornail.

I’m working on a test with carburetor adjustments and the Ethanol Shield to see how it works. They may have the solution…

Tim Ard is president and lead instructor of Forest Applications Training, Inc. a national chainsaw safety and productivity training company. For more information contact us info@forestapps.com

© Copyright 2011 Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Cracks and Splits

Cracks and Splits

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

One of the most unpredictable and dangerous situations confronting us in storm damage and sometimes rotted trees, is the too often presence of cracks, shatters and splits in the tree trunks, logs and limbs. There are somewhat natural windshakes, or cracks, in most standing trees but when wind, tornados, hurricane, fire or bugs start working on a tree - multiple cracks, splits or crevices tend to make planning and control an even greater concern.

Cracked, split and twisted fiber in storm broken limbs and downed trunks can be shattered and twisted into many strands. Just cutting through the log when in this condition can be challenging. Every cut releases a fiber strand that attempts to grab your saw chain and with moving weight loads tries to pinch your saw chain and guide bar.

A standing tree, that’s been fire damaged or has started the drying process at near deadwood state, sometimes creates vertical splits. Some I have seen are impossible to plan around and in these cases you are even taking a chance to make a cut unto them. The tree may collapse vertically, or twist and shatter heading in an unpredictable direction. Often times, if the tree is vertically straight, even equipment pushing or pulling is too risky. Maybe this is a good application for dynamite or a planned knock down by another tree. These killers are found often in the Western USA but you can find plenty of them in the all the states.

Winston Rall, USFS, sent me this photo of a shell of a tree from out in his part of the country. That’s a hardhat stuck in a crack in the trunk…. As I said, some trees may need dynamite.

One technique option for more simple cracks or shatters may be a bore or plunge cut. They can be used to remove tension or shorten fiber length to make it possible to cut some split fiber situation. Using a bore cut slightly before or after twisted fiber may allow you to take tension out of the log or limb.

I received the following message from a Massachusetts contact:

Tim, I was in the May class in Southbridge that you taught for basic skills and storm cleanup. On June 2nd, we had an F3 touch down in Massachusetts. The skills you taught us were extremely useful in the cleanup following the storm. The hinge is truly my friend! Yesterday, I took down a 20 ft. remnant of a red oak that had been stripped of its bark. The top had been smashed off also, leaving the remainder of the trunk splintered in many pieces but still vertical. To take it down, I notched each separate splinter as if it were a separate tree, making a plunge cut for my back cut. From this plunge cut I would make my back cut for the next piece. This allowed me to fell each piece in a controlled manner exactly where I wanted it to go. Thank you for the training. I have been telling anyone that will listen what a great training program you have. Thanks again, Butch Meyer

Offset cuts can be used to remove shattered fiber. Cut the compression side first and then offset the cut on the tension side. Cut a distance just far enough to intersect the fiber you cut from the compression side, but do it a distance left or right of the compression cut to stay to the edge of shattered/split area.

Be very careful that the split, crack or shatter is not under bowed tension. They can mimic a spring pole in this scenario. When you cut, the fiber may attempt to straighten and move rapidly. Watch your position and the cutting location. Try to cut in the middle of any formed arcs.

I plan to put some of this into video form this fall along with several other techniques for applications in storm debris clean up. Until then, a great way to visualize a lot of these techniques in action is to attend one of our three-day storm debris and falling workshops. More information at www.forestapps.com

Good Sawing!

Tim Ard is president and lead instructor of Forest Applications Training, Inc. a nationwide training firm for operators in all chainsaw applications.

Stuck in the Storm

Stuck in the Storm

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

We have all been there...take down a tree or we’re removing a tree already down from a storm and begin to make a cut on the trunk or limb. The wood grabs our saw with a vengeance before we can complete the cut. Yes, it’s happened to me one time a long, long time ago (Right, it’s a lie. Maybe twice...). If you cut trees it’s a fact, you will occasionally get stuck. The challenge is to limit the occurrence's and you can if you understand why and plan well.

When you make cuts with a chainsaw you have to constantly take information on compression and tension. Compression is the side of the pressure or bind in the log or limb that will close the kerf cut, pinching your saw bar. Tension is the opposite side, the side that will open away from your bar during the cut or movement of the limb or log. These reactions, I will call them, can take place from side to side, up and down or even at some unexpected angles, as the weight and pressures in the wood are released. There are a few common scenarios to plan around.

Open Air

In this case the smaller log or limb is supported by air or it is simply a limb that is coming from the trunk and is not touching anything at the end. Its not supported in other words. The compression side is on the bottom of the limb. The Tension is on top. You can simply make a severing cut from the top and the limb falls.

Weighted

What if it’s a heavy limb? What if the limb has weighted branches to one side? In this case the limb may split or begin to twist as you cut and it still pinches your chain and or saw bar. You have to anticipate the movement and out-cut the separating wood fiber. A notch or deeper compression side kerf cut is important here.

End Support

The log or limb is touching or supported on two ends or two pivots. It has a downward movement potential between the two points of support. The wood wants to drop in the middle. Top compression is found in this scenario.

Side Object

If a limb or trunk is against a side object, like a tree or anything that is applying pressure on the piece sideways. This may also be determined to be a horizontal spring pole. The compression is going to be usually on the away from object side or the inner arc side.

Other Considerations

Pivots may be formed by objects or limbs supporting the limb or trunk above ground level. Back pressure can be formed by the limb or log being more vertical or up against something in the end pushing backward. There can also be situations formed by fences, cables, electric lines, etc that require additional caution and specialized training.

In all the scenarios above, and there are many more actual situations that can be met in the field, it is so, so, important to have a good planning process to assess the needs and dangers before making each cut. Hazards, Side Pressures, Up and Down Pressures, Back Pressures and the Individual Cut Technique must be confirmed.

Solution

Next, I’ve planned and decide to make a cut, why do I still get stuck? It could be because trees grow in circles.

Picture the growth rings on a round piece of wood. Every ring (in most climates) represents a year of growth. Each ring is supporting the growth of the tree or limb cylindrically. As you cut through from any side, according to the shape of the cylinder at that given point, you remove support fibers. When the weight or pressure over comes the strength of the growth ring a split or twist usually (will) occurs. This split or twist can also be accompanied by unsightly peels of bark and outer growth layers. Most often this combination causes pinches of the bar and saw chain.

I am convinced the number one thing that causes the stuck is the weight and pressures that move the wood piece during the cut, sometimes very quickly. Because limbs and logs grow in circles it is very hard to determine at what point in the cut the fiber will separate or twist. When this happens, stuck city....

When you make a straight cut into the round wood piece, the externally applied pressures in the growth rings begin to separate. They push outward at the side corners of the cylinder rings and this causes resistance and splitting of the fiber. If again there is weight or pressures, it can cause you to become stuck in these separating fibers.

You must always observe the compression and tensions working. However, a cut or notch on the compression side can reduce the chances of unexpected fiber release and movement. Understand that just a straight cut creates a kerf (slot) but if the piece can only move the width of the kerf, when it closes, other pressures are created at the end of the kerf. A straight cut will often relieve the bind or twist of the cylinder fiber but binds and pulls can still be expected. Also, think about that in the kerf there are end grain fibers that should they bind against your bar or saw chain are like vise jaws. Stuck city...

A very useful technique I have been shown to virtually eliminate the compression side bind is to use a notch, or even simpler the slide notch, on the compression side. A slide notch, just to a depth of as little as a couple growth rings, will relieve the outward pressure at the ring growth and stops the split and or fiber pull. Outcome - Less bar and chain pinches.

Please understand that storm damaged trees and limbs are heavy and often are twisted and loaded with pressures and binds. You need to be familiar with these issues before picking up the chainsaw. Personal injury or property damage does not offset the perceived savings of not calling a professional or seeking special training first.

Should you decide to DIY, please make the investment in Personal Protective Equipment to hopefully lessen an injury should an accident, unplanned event, occur. Visit www.Elvex.com

Good Sawing!

Tim Ard is President of Forest Applications Training, Inc., a training company for chainsaw safety and operations techniques. For more information on training send a question or request to info@ForestApps.com or visit www.ForestApps.com

Going Ballistic!

Going Ballistic
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

If I understand how something works- I better understand the need for it or maybe how to use it. Chainsaw operators have been going ballistic over leg protection for many years now. I want to share with you a few thoughts.

The term ballistic nylon is used to describe the fibers recommended for leg protective (PPE) garments for the chainsaw. It actually is derived from fibers used in making bullet resistant body armor. One of the first and still used today is Dupont Kevlar, a very strong and durable yellow colored fiber. Fibers of this type were first developed and used in belting for automotive tires and other applications requiring reinforcement with flexibility. This reinforcement fiber was heat resistant as well as strong and soon found it's way into leg protection for logging and the US Forest Service. The USFS requires the fabric to be highly flame resistant because of their use related to forest fires.

Today there are several fiber types used for chainsaw leg protection. Many people still consider the fibers used in all leg protection as "Kevlar", similar to many call soft drinks a "Coke."

Whatever you call chainsaw leg protection fiber, it is the best insurance we can wear against chainsaw injuries to the legs. Let me state something here - No leg protection is to be considered cut proof. It is designed to give you reaction time and hopefully limit, lessen or reduce, the injury should the chainsaw come in contact. Several Manufactures test their pads and garment design to the ASTM standards for the North American Leg Protection Standard. Look at the label on your chaps, or the ones you are considering, you should find a label showing their compliance to this standard. Usually you will find the label of classification to the standard by the Underwriters Laboratory (UL) that performed the test.

Now understanding some of the technical aspects of leg protection let's discuss some typical concerns that may inhibit their use.

During a recent storm clean up following tornados in North Georgia, one of my good friends, Robert Albritton of Tree Works Unlimited observed a chain saw operator without any PPE. Robert, wanting to offer help to those volunteering, asked the young man if he were to get him a pair of chaps from the truck would he wear them? The young man replied, "I wouldn't want to mess up your chaps sir." Robert told him not to worry about that, but still no way he was going to accept Robert's offer. Robert is a professional who recognizes the importance of PPE with his employees and himself. When an unplanned incident (accident) with a chainsaw takes place, two top at risk areas for lacerations are - the legs.

Folks (being a Southerner and caring), you can compare chaps to ballistic body armor here. You can be a soldier or police officer without body armor but if you get hit by a bullet would you want to have it or not? The same is true relating to leg protection while using a chainsaw. Why wouldn't you want to make the investment and take the time to put it on if it could save your life or limb?

The past year I have had the opportunity to learn a great deal about products from Elvex Safety. Their leg protective pads designed with Prolar Fabric is a combination of white fibers layered specifically for chainsaw protection to maximize the chain jamming effect. If or when the chainsaw makes contact, these fibers work hard to maximize reaction time. It's not just the fibers, it's also how the woven pads are arranged and layered. Elvex works well!

Thinking about Going Chainsaw Ballistic? Consider Elvex Safety...

Learn more about leg protection with information and video presentations on the www.Elvex.com site ( http://www.elvex.com/chainsaw-chaps.htm ). There is a video showing the parameters of the ASTM testing ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btgEjO5YQis&feature=youtube_gdata_player) and also one showing me cutting into a chap leg. When you see the Prolar Pads in action you will agree as I do... Never operate a chainsaw without them!

Good Sawing!

Tim Ard is president of Forest Application Training, Inc. http://www.ForestApps.com . Elvex Safety is a sponsor of Forest Applications Training Programs.


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Planning A Storm

Planning A Storm
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

To plan a storm… sounds strange doesn't it? We really shouldn’t need to plan a storm; they seem to happen too often and too frequently as it is. There is some type of storm, flood or natural disaster that seems to be taking place somewhere in the U.S. and around the world daily. So why plan?

When the storm hits, no matter what type and where, one of the first tools that’s requested and called into action is guess what? The chainsaw. Thought of to be one of the top dangers of all tool operation, second possibly to only the devastation of the storm itself, is called into action to begin the clean up operations. So why plan? Why plan the storm?

An accident is an unplanned event! So, during storm clean up, here are a few scenarios to consider planning around:

A volunteer, wearing running shoes, steps on a board with a nail in it and punctures his foot through the soft bottom of the shoe.

A volunteer, moves a limb to a pile beside the road, passes another volunteer and the second is struck in the eye.

A man cleaning a lawn, under a willow tree, is hit in the top of the head by a small falling limb and it stabs him in the top of his head causing injury and a quick trip to the emergency room.

A chainsaw operator cuts a storm fallen tree. The root system, bent over underground, and when the trunk is severed the remaining trunk stands rapidly back up. A child was in the area playing while adults were working the tree clean up. The child was crushed and killed under the roots.

A homeowner rushes around his property after a storm trying to pick up debris and remove a fallen tree in his back yard. He approaches the fallen tree and steps on a wire, thinking the power is off, and is electrocuted.

A chainsaw operator with a recently purchased saw was pushing, the now dulling or dull saw, through a limb on a storm fallen tree. The limb was bent and loaded with pressure and when the saw finally made it through the cut the saw was thrown quickly back toward the operator’s left leg. He was rushed to the emergency room.

A storm clean up volunteer was assisting, by pulling brush and limbs to a pile behind a chainsaw operator. As the limb was pulled it caused a pinch of the saw bar and the operator pulled the saw free and into his right leg just above the ankle.
A worker was assisting a chainsaw operator by pulling brush from the debris line. The chainsaw operator turned around, not knowing the position of the worker, and cut the worker pulling brush in the right arm.

A chainsaw operator is cutting a top clear on a wind broken tree when another chainsaw operator decides to fell the standing trunk. The operator on the top is quickly knocked down with his saw to the ground.

I have spoken to many groups over the years on chainsaw applications and most deal with the use of a saw after a storm at some point. The stories above- all came from real stories related to me during breaks and conversations.

I have found, in my experience anyway, that once a storm takes place it’s too late for training. Yes, review can be suggested and plans can be formulated but the information needed to be in practiced regarding saw maintenance and cutting techniques will not be taken into use and reality once the volunteering at the work site begins. Unless, the basis of knowledge is already in place the safety will not be in place.

Safety is an awareness of the things that can cause accidents and injury. You cannot put together a plan to prevent accidents if you are unaware of the issues that may cause them.

Volunteer groups have been organized in several areas across the country for cleanup work on recent floods and tornados. Organizing groups like the Baptist Disaster Relief and Samaritan’s Purse have extensive training programs to train volunteers prior to storm needs. FEMA and the Red Cross teams utilize these organizers as well as their own. However, there are many Church and Civic Organizations that want to help, and because of the many needs, thousands of volunteers approach storm clean up operations with little or no awareness training.

A smaller organizer(s) should work hard to plan the storm! Seek the experience of some of the larger groups for training prior to the need. Understand please that you cannot wait until the need arises to gain the training knowledge and awareness. At a minimum, the need to have key people trained to be able to organize the volunteers and have needed equipment and tools ready to go should be in place.

From a chainsaw operations standpoint:

Have your equipment ready to go. The chainsaw(s) to be used must be in top working condition. The Operator’s Manual should accompany the saw along with any necessary tools specific to the unit. Operators should be familiar with the particular saw type before work begins.

Spare guide bars and saw chains should be with the saw(s) to the storm worksite.

Mixed fuel and chain oil should be located and supplies planned ahead to accomplish the work.

Sharpening systems must be considered and or located and an operator must practice and understand when a chain is sharp and dull. When the chain needs sharpening. A dulled saw chain is relatively more dangerous in storm damage work.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is to be required of all chainsaw operators on the worksite. NO exceptions! Head, eye, ear, hand and leg protective wear as well as boots should be on all chainsaw operators. If volunteers show up with chainsaws they should not use them on the worksite without having proper PPE in place.

A plan of work for the area involving the chainsaw operators should be formulated and supervised by the trained organizing/team leader. The chainsaw operator’s tasks should begin with lead-time from the dragging, brushing and moving debris work. In some cases larger equipment will need to be in place in the plan before ground volunteers/workers are brought into the worksite. The work of pulling and moving the debris must be time spaced after the sawing. It doesn’t have to be more than just a few minutes separated, but distance (time space) needs to be between chainsaws, equipment and workers on the ground moving debris.

Workers do not hold limbs, logs, etc for the chainsaw operator’s to cut.

Large equipment does not hold limbs or logs for chainsaw operators to cut. Move it to location for safe cutting.

Workers/volunteers moving debris by hand should have heavy-duty footwear with traction soles. Preferably high top work boots with ankle support. No running shoes, sneakers or sandals allowed. Safety glasses and work gloves are required. If debris, limbs and standing trees are still over the worksite, hardhats are required. In some site conditions a dust mask is required. According to the task, but especially with tree debris work, long pants and long sleeve shirts are proper work apparel.


You may think of a few more bullet points for storm planning that can be added to these. I am continuing to compile more as I think though what’s needed in different storm scenarios. Elvex Safety has agreed to sponsor and produce a storm planning video to include these thoughts and also the most important cutting techniques related to chainsaw operations. Visit www.forestapps.com and subscribe to our free ChainPoint eNews for more future details.

Forest Applications Training, Inc. is a training company with over 20-years of history specializing in chainsaw applications and safety for logging, tree care, government agencies and disaster relief. Tim Ard is the President and Lead Instructor and has conducted chainsaw training in over 40 states. For information call 770-222-2511 or write info@forestapps.com .

© Copyright 2011 Forest Applications Training, Inc. Reprint with permission acceptable. info@forestapps.com


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Kick Back...

Kick Back...
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Too often I hear the term used... Someone using a chainsaw and a cut happens to someone's leg or other body area and the culprit is defined as... Kick Back.

Kick Back, from a chainsaw definition, is a reactive force that is produced by the rotating saw chain as it ascends around the upper guide bar nose. When the saw chain is touched or pinched as it goes around this area, the reaction is an upward rotation of the guide bar tip, it rotates upward in the direction the bar is aligned. Too often toward the operator.

It is my own theory, collected from questioning those attending class that have been previously cut with a chainsaw, that many times the term Kick Back has two definitions. The second occurrence is not related to the chainsaw directly, but to what it is cutting. Many times the chainsaw is thrown back toward the operator by the pressures held in the wood material or limb being cut. One such situation is what we describe as a Spring Pole. You can read more about Spring Poles in articles on our website www.ForestApps.com.

Other situations that may cause a saw to be thrown toward the operator may be described as movement caused by side binds, weight and pivots that are sometimes difficult to recognize as we make cuts with the saw on a downed tree. The tree may be over a stump, ridge or other pivot that when cut may come up or go down quickly when the piece is severed. A limb may be held down on the end and when a covering limb or support is severed the movement can be inches or in some cases feet. This quick movement can surprise even the best of us.

The answer to controlling either type of Kick Back? Plan each cut thoroughly. Make sure your footing and body position are such to control any saw movement. Maximize your reaction time by considering the possible movement of the material or the chainsaw. Use a sharp saw chain when working. Pushing and pulling on a saw, because of dull chain, is not something you want to deal with when standing next to material that may be loaded. Pushing may even further load the situation too...

Always wear Personal Protective Equipment when operating a chainsaw. Even the best of plans may miss a little something and could end in an unplanned accident event. PPE can sometimes lessen an injury should an accident occur...

Kick Back of any type is important to understand and your ability and knowledge of it is the key. Read about it in your chainsaw's operators manual and then visit our website for more applications.

More info at www.ForestApps.com





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Chap up...

Chap Up…

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Chainsaw operators for many years have known about the positive aspects of the leg protective saw chap. Every month though it seems I come across people that didn’t know chaps are available and don’t understand how they work nor their ever increasing need to put them on.

Loggers in the Western USA and the US Forest Service have been using them for decades now and they are increasing in popularity in all the states. Why you say? Because it hurts to be cut by a chainsaw and many of the injuries happen to the operators legs.

Leg protection garments work from what is called the process of jamming. The fiber padding in the chap leg is designed to pull out and jam the chainsaw chain, bar and sprocket to slow the speed of the saw chain and intentionally stop the chain rotation. The process doesn’t mean in every situation that chaps will prevent injury but the intention is to give reaction time and hopefully reduce the injury should the accident occur. I hear almost weekly testimonies of how chaps prevented cuts in accident situations.

Most all leg protection garments have a layered pad of what is called ballistic nylon. These nylon fibers are used in bullet resistant body armor, thus the term ballistic came about. Some are out of a fiber that is white in color and often called warp-knit. Some of the first on the market were from DuPont’s Kevlar® which is a yellow colored fiber. Some others have a combination of both fibers. The fiber is important but the real ability to work with the saw chain is how it’s woven and how the multiple layers are constructed in the pad.

A relatively new padding on the market is available from Elvex Safety. The fiber combination is called Elvex Prolar®. This Prolar® material, used in their leg protection products, is designed specifically for chainsaw leg protection. The material when hit by the moving saw chain pulls out and wraps the saw drive system as others but then it appears to explode (so to speak, it expands) and jams quickly. The result is a new generation Elvex ProChaps tested in compliance by Underwriter’s Laboratories in accordance with ASTM F-1414, Measurement of Cut Resistance to Chain Saw Lower Body Protective Clothing. http://www.elvex.com/forestry-safety-videos.htm

It is important too that leg chaps are comfortable and the design is such that it covers the legs in a fashion that reduces the chance of twist. If the straps are uncomfortable or the position of the leg pad is not positioned correctly, the chain will find its way to your leg. A design that seems to work best with this twist possibility is one called asymmetric. The pad is positioned slightly to the left of the chap leg to aid in preventing the twist, giving more coverage area and reaction time.

Outer materials of the garment you choose is related to the amount of wear you plan. There are lighter weight and heavy weight outer materials, usually of Cordura® fabrics. The pads are the same, so it doesn't effect their protection. There are a variety of sizes and lengths however that can effect safe coverage. You want to make sure to cover from your groin area to the top of your footwear. Also available are full wrap designs that cover the back of the leg, your calf area.

Two labels important to look for when purchasing are the testing classification label and the care instruction label. Make sure your chaps are designed for chainsaw protection and that you can easily clean them when they become soiled. Dirty, oil soaked protection pads may reduce the ability for the chain to pull out the jamming fibers and enable it to better cut through. Keep them clean…

My emphasis during training workshops is to never use your saw without Leg Protection and other important PPE items of Head, Hand, Eye, Ear, Face and Foot Protection. The ever-increasing need I wrote of earlier is simply - it costs more to repair you, a friend or family member, than ever before. Make sure you have it and use it!

For more information visit our website www.ForestApps.com

© Copyright 2011 Forest Applications Training, Inc.