Monday, January 23, 2017

Slide Instead...

Slide Instead…
by Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

A tree is down and now the real work begins. We have to cut it into manageable pieces to be able to either move it, chip it, or sell it. In this process are a magnitude of issues that can effect our safety and profit.

Where to cut is formed by our need to move/remove the cut wood pieces. Planning a required length for either hand movement or machine. Sometimes our decision is dictated by market or work area requirements. Firewood length, chip length or environmental concern length are all necessary size requirements. Whatever the size needed, at the point you make the cut, a plan must be developed.

A decision has to be made asking yourself these questions. When I make this cut and sever this piece will it move? Side to side, up and down or back to forward? We must anticipate movement to decide how to control it. We decide where to cut and will it move, then next is what technique to cut the piece. Sometimes just a straight kerf cut to sever the piece. Sometimes a notch and hinge to slow reactions and pinch pressures. Sometimes offset cuts reduce movement and eliminate pinch and bind.

Two very useful techniques are a simple kerf and or a slide notch.

The Kerf
The kerf is the term used to describe a cut made into a log or limb. Making a cut with a saw into the log or limb produces a kerf. The kerf is normally about 3/8” wide. The depth of the kerf is regulated by our depth of cut.

There are really only two types of kerf’s used when working with a saw. A straight kerf and a combination of kerf’s we call a notch and back cut.

A straight kerf will close quickly under pressure and force fibers to bind a saw bar and chain on the compression side of a log or limb. On the tension side of the log or limb a straight kerf will work fine to reduce bind as long as a kerf or notch and hinge on the compression side allows movement without closing or fiber splitting.

The Slide Notch
The slide notch is produced by simply turning the bar and chain parallel to the limb or trunk on the compression side. Now slide the bar up or down the surface making an opening in the bark and the fiber. This shallow slide into the fiber will work as a notch opening, of about 90 degrees. Then as the kerf cut is made from the opposite tension side, the fiber is allowed to work as a hinge. The notch and hinge can even be made toward the side of the piece to direct the limb or trunk in a more sideways direction. In either position the slide notch works much better than a simple kerf cut. A slide notch can be made just as quickly, if not faster, than a straight kerf cut and eliminates the chances of compression side bind.

Notch Thoughts
The notch is used in our work to allow the wood fiber to bend, relieving pressure as the wood piece is severed. Because tree trunks and limbs grow is circles, adding growth rings annually for strength while maintaining flexibility, a notch is necessary to keep the pressures from splitting the fibers as they move in a desired direction. You can illustrate this by just making a kerf into a limb piece and then applying pressure to the limb. The fiber will split off instead of bending in the desired direction. If you make just a small mark (slide notch) on the limb on the opposite side from your kerf, when pressure is applied, the fiber will work as a hinge into that notch opening. This relief notch is reducing the fiber separation and splitting that occurred in the previous.

Operators sometime use notches to try to prevent binding in a limb or log. The notch opening is placed deep into the piece with thoughts to reduce binding on the compression side (the side closing on your saw bar). It’s not the notch however that reduces the pinch it’s the hinge wood just behind the notch that eliminates the pinch. A deeper notch simply moves the pinch point not the pinch.The depth of the notch really only moves the compressing pinch point closer to the middle of the limb or logs diameter. This will actually pinch your guide bar with more pressure than a shallow notch. Several kerf’s will do a better job than a notch to reduce the pinch possibilities in pressure situations. The best however is a hinge (or holding fiber) to keep your guide bar and chain from becoming stuck. It can definitely help the operator read the anticipated movement with less bind possibilities.

SO, next time you plan to clear a storm situation cutting a tree trunk or limb, try a Slide Notch Instead.

Remember, when using a chainsaw an important part of your plan is to read and fully understand the manufacturers operation manual and to always wear proper Personal Protective Equipment when using a chainsaw.

A great way to learn how these techniques work in action is to attend one of our ForestApps Storm Sawing Workshops. Check out our website at for more details or contact our office at or call 770-543-9862.

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Monday, February 1, 2016

Three Day Experiences...

Forest Applications Training, Inc.
Three Day Workshop

By Tim Ard, President/Instructor Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Why so much time? Why three days? Is there really that much information to cover?

Our Three Day Workshop, we call Storm Sawing, is the ultimate training system for the novice and full-time chainsaw operators. It is review for some and new for others but in every aspect it is chainsaw application education. Time spent in establishing a planning process in use of the chainsaw. 

Some people are afraid or hesitate to drive a car on major highways. Some people are afraid of flying in airplanes. Some people have been using a chainsaw since they were old enough to walk with it, others are scared to pick one up. In most things to be comfortable our experience level establishes our comfort level.

Experience - a great teacher!

Soren Eriksson explained it this way in many of the first chainsaw training workshops I attended. Experience is the best teacher but you must remember there are two different types of experiences — Good ones and bad ones! Some you want to learn on your own, bad ones from others as it is a lot less painful that way!

Chainsaw manufactures have done an awesome job over the last 90 years from their experience in producing chainsaws with the latest technology. Making them as safe and productive as they can be. Using feedback from operators like yourselves. Information from well liked experiences and some from known patterns of bad experiences. 

My chainsaw training experiences have been formed in a third of that time, a little over 30 years. My 30 years of chainsaw, out of about 60 years of life, focusing on the safety and productivity of the operators of those manufactured products. I have learned a lot from manufactures’ and operators’ and have attempted to organize all aspects of chainsaw operation and maintenance into a workshop of 18 short hours over a three day time. I can tell you workshops have to be focused, yet very flexible, to accomplish my goal with so many experience levels of operators. However, it is so important to make sure that all those attending totally understand the importance of the results. Results hinge on a few very important key factors:

  • Time proven teaching techniques and methods.
  • Positive organizer and attendee attitudes.
  • Classroom facilities.
  • Proper attendee numbers.
  • Adequate cutting sites.
  • Properly applied equipment.
  • Weather.

A training workshop, that gets results, must be well planned and organized in all the above areas. Most of all, have an instructor who can manage it all.

I’m not going to go through the specific outline, techniques or agenda of the workshop here, that can be found on our website or through discussions with our office, but I do want to give you some of my thoughts as to why our Three Day Workshop is important to overall attendee results. This is a progressive instruction process. It is important to have attended the days in order. However, it is possible to have time between the days. If an attendee cannot make the days consecutively he or she can attend the next higher level class that meets their time schedule.

Day One
We are equipped to lecture and demonstrate to a large number (40 to 100) attendees given facilities and cutting site will accommodate. This day is an in classroom lecture and discussion of chainsaw PPE, Reactive Forces, Sharpening, Maintenance, and Planning followed by an outside demo that establishes the process at a tree. Once the tree is felled a discussion of de-limbing, spring pole  and bucking techniques are shown and discussed. Attendees watch and learn. This first day is often used to show a larger group what can be learned and invite interest in the smaller attendee hands on day two and three. It can also be a great review day for a previous trained group as well as an intro into day two and three for a new group.

Day Two
A group maximum of 15 attendees ( this is 15 max for this day with a preferred 10 to 12 ). This smaller group is then hands on with planning and felling trees looking at concepts of the hinge and felling cuts. It must be size limited for safety but also for site, terrain, time and sometimes weather limitations. All attendees must be focused on each tree felled. Every tree is different, ranging from size, to leans, as well sometimes dead or alive, so it is important the whole group plans and focuses on every situation.

Day Three
A group of 12 to 16 is preferred. De-limbing and Bucking the felled trees of day two. This day is where most firewood and storm cleanup operators really want to be. Pressures and binds of storm and cleanup can be challenging and a lot of work. Organizers sometime think you should be able to go right to this day to start. I can tell you that the site must be set up properly with the felled trees to really be able to safely conduct this training. When it is set up properly and the attendees work in teams the positive results multiply rapidly. 

Attendees not only feel they work safer but also a lot more productive after going through the progression of the three days. I have tried several times to start with a group that doesn't have a focussed planning process, equipment that is not performing well and operators not understanding a hinge — the results are then very unpredictable.

In Conclusion…

Training to cover big numbers is often times initially less cost per person but is not always the most profitable for your overall budgeted results.  Maintaining a safe work environment and maximizing productivity is what makes training dollars, as well as your organization, profitable isn't it? 

You know — the bottom line is experience isn't it? Safety is effected by experience? Productivity is dependent on experience and effected by safety is it not?  How can you then limit a training experience and expect maximum safely productive positive results? 

All that is really required training for a chainsaw operator is to read and understand the chainsaw manufactures operation manual. How many people you know have read it? How many have applied and purchased the PPE, maintenance and sharpening tools listed in those publications and have followed the falling, de-limbing and bucking techniques found in those pages? This finding is a very good example of why a formal training program is needed for any equipment operation.

Training is a long term investment, especially with tools like chainsaws. Whether you contact Forest Applications and schedule a workshop or you prefer another training company or you organize a training program yourself. Think about experience is a progression not a single event. An experience, to be results training, must make an impression on the attendee that is first applicable, promote productivity and most of all structured to promote and maintain safe work habits in the operation environment. It should be a life changing experience.  

Our training programs, nor any others, can turn you into an experienced operator in 1 day or 20 days. The workshop’s or program can only give you a valuable experience to continue to build upon… Choose and Invest in Your Experiences Wisely.

Thank you to all those who have attended our Experiences in the past years and those we hope to see in the future— Good Sawing….

Contact Forest Applications Training, Inc. at or visit for more information.

Friday, January 22, 2016

Stump-Shot or Not....

Stump-Shot or Not...

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

You've made an almost picture perfect face notch in the tree trunk. Right on dimensions and directed perfectly for a spot on placement of the tree in the drop target area. Now for the back cut to finish off your task. 

You level up the saw bar with the proper height on the back of the trunk, ready for the final cut. But wait, what’s your thoughts on where the back cut should be height wise in relation to the V of the face notch. Should it be higher than the V, or lower? And if so, how much should it be higher or lower? One inch, two inches or three inches. 

Stump-Shot or in other terms the correct raised offset level of the back cut on a limb or tree has been tossed around for as long as there has been saw work. The Stump-Shot has been always used in felling, and sometimes large limb removal, to keep the severed piece from rebounding backward toward the operator. It is kind of a physics thing that when a tree or limb is severed it tends to fall (unique concept huh). When it falls the center weight of the stem seeks its attachment point and the butt end comes backward during that action. This backward action is believed to be limited by the Stump-Shot. The higher back cut leaves a ledge to limit the stem from coming back during that rebound action. It locks the butt so to speak on the Stump-Shot so it’s less likely to come back. 

In reality this action of butt rebound starts when the felling hinge is broken or no longer controls the fall. This happens in timing with the action of the face notch. If the notch is closed the hinge breaks. The vertical position the stem is in during the falling process when the hinge control is lost causes the butt rebound to be greater. In the fall of a virtually straight tree, if the face notch is 45 degrees this takes place at a position of half way to the ground. If the notch is less that 45 or the notch is by-passed (back corner of the notch does not meet exact), it could take place sooner in the fall. Either way some amount of control is lost in the tree fall when the notch closes or resistance breaks the hinge. So, the Stump-Shot it is believed to assist the hold of the stem in position on the stump during the fall.

Another way to think through the process is to think what would keep the stem attached to the stump longer and possibly more predictably?  If the face notch were open to 70 degrees (the Open Face technique) or even more, then the stem would stay attached until such time as the butt rebound scenario is not a factor. This more open notch, allowing the hinge to remain in intact longer, retaining control of the fall until the tree or limb is to a desired position on the ground. If the tree hangs on something the hinge is most likely still holding. Butt rebound becomes little or no factor.

But why not just use a Stump-Shot to make sure? Three things come into play.

  1. To be sure of the hinge dimension you plan to control the tree or limb movement with is to have the back cut level to the face notch. Often limbs and trunks grow with angled fiber, like a flared trunk at ground level or a limb collar up the tree. Think about if you have fiber growing at 30 degrees and you consider the level of a notch and the higher level of the back cut. Your planned hinge thickness between those two levels, because of the angled fiber between, could be reduced unknowingly between those two points. Knowing this scenario the only way you can plan/calculate an exact hinge thickness or width is with your back cut level to the notch.
  2. When the tree or limb starts to fall with a Stump-Shot it has to separate fibers vertically to begin the hinge breaking process. The Stump-Shot can cause splitting of the log and loss of control if the hinge is not to a bendable dimension. If the hinge is thin at the Stump-Shot level it can cause the tree to twist or set down during vertical fiber separation losing direction steering control. When the hinge is level to the notch the fiber is more apt to break from the back to the front without pulling fiber from the stump or log. If the side weight tries to break the hinge it is usually better supported by end grain fiber of the stump.
  3. The Stump-Shot doesn't keep the tree from spinning or going off toward side weight and coming backward. If contact with another tree or limb takes place, after the notch has closed and hinge is broken, the control of the tree is not maintained by the Stump-Shot. It can still butt rebound. Smaller trees can roll off the Stump-Shot quickly and still butt rebound. 

So in conclusion there is nothing wrong with a calculated Stump-Shot in your plan, but just as with any part of a plan or technique, understand its limitations and its advantages. Success and safety is applying the right tool or technique from the plan bag and being totally aware of its purpose and or function. 

The Hinge is Your Friend! Make sure your notch allows the planned hinge to work properly during the fall and your back cut type and level maintains your ability to establish your hinge and move safely to your planned escape area as soon as the tree or limb begins to move. 

Always check your Chainsaw as per the Manufacturers Operators Manual and wear Personal Protective Equipment when working with a chainsaw in any operation.

For more information on formulating a work plan for you and your chainsaw — visit or contact our office at 770-543-9862 or email to arrange a training program for you or your organization. 

Monday, August 31, 2015

Hard to Start....

Hard to Start…
by Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

A few changes to the newer saws regarding starting procedures have made old habits into new problems. You might want to do the unusual and read your operator’s manual to find the answer to many complaints from saw operators as to their saw being hard to start. 

I’ve noticed in training workshops there are those that have trouble starting the chainsaw. Some of the troubles can be related to the frequency of use. They simply forget the sequence of events to start the saw between operation times or they are unfamiliar with the saw brand or type. Some problems in starting however are because of the misunderstanding of the switch and starting procedures. We often overlook the need for basic instruction to prevent frustration - Like look at the manual or familiarize the operator with basic controls. If we are never taught correctly it definitely leads down a frustrating path. 

I also find that operators think it takes pull after pull of the starter cord to finally fire up the saw. I watch operators pull until totally exhausted - 20 pulls and still no running saw. I have adopted a rule of thumb in my starting procedures that works well for me… If you pull 7 times and it hasn't fired and or is running, there is something wrong. This helped me to develop the following process below and it’s usually very close to the instructions from the manufacturer’s operation manual.  Also, make sure the unit is properly adjusted. An improperly adjusted carburetor can make for a non productive and possibly unsafe operation. A simple 5 step run check can be found on our website or check the run procedures in your manufacture’s operators manual. Know how your equipment should run.

ALWAYS use Proper Protective Equipment when starting and or operating a hand held piece of power equipment.

If the engine has not been started (cold engine) -  

First make sure the proper mix of fresh fuel is in the tank and the air filter is clean. If the unit has an OFF/ON switch make sure it is in the ON position. Newer units may not have an OFF position. The engine is killed by momentarily pushing the switch to OFF. This makes it impossible to forget to turn the switch on but remember the engine could start by just simply pulling the starter cord.

Apply the Chain Brake. Make sure the cutting attachment is clear of all people and objects.

Pull out the CHOKE lever. Or move the control lever to the CHOKE/START position.

Assume the proper starting position, holding the saw firmly. 

Pull the starting cord until a slight pop it heard or the engine tries to run (no more than 7 pulls).

Push in the CHOKE lever or the control lever up one position to the fast idle position. 

Pull the starting cord again till the engine runs (no more than 7 pulls). If the engine starts in fast idle, simple depress the throttle trigger and release it to idle down. You don’t want to leave the engine idling fast with the chain brake engaged but don't release the chain brake with the engine in fast idle as the chain will spin. Slow the engine first by a quick press and release of the throttle trigger.

Release the chain brake and you're ready for work.

If the engine is warm and has been started (or you are unsure) - 

First make sure the proper mix of fresh fuel is in the tank and the air filter is clean. If the unit has an OFF/ON switch make sure it is in the ON position. Newer units may not have an OFF position. The engine is killed by momentarily pushing the switch to OFF. This makes it impossible to forget to turn the switch on but remember the engine could start by just simply pulling the starter cord.

Apply the Chain Brake. Make sure the cutting attachment is clear of all people and objects.

Assume the proper starting position, holding the saw firmly. 

Pull the starting cord (no more than 7 times), the engine should start and idle. 

If it doesn't start, pull out the CHOKE lever and push it back in or the control lever down and back up one position to the fast idle position. (Do not pull the starting cord in the CHOKE position of a warm engine. It will flood the engine and make starting even harder).

Pull the starting cord until the engine runs (no more than 7 pulls). If the engine starts in fast idle, simple depress the throttle trigger and release it to idle down. You don’t want to leave the engine idling fast with the chain brake engaged but don't release the chain brake with the engine in fast idle as the chain will spin. Slow the engine first by a quick press and release of the throttle trigger.

Release the chain brake and you're ready for work.

If it doesn't start with the warm start procedure go back to the cold start procedure above.

Wednesday, March 4, 2015

The Future!

I have been "building on the basis" the past few years (now that I'm aging more every day) that the key to a great training system is to pass it along to key people to supply the knowledge to the masses. With the increasing need of safe, efficient chainsaw operators in storm cleanup, recreational trails, parks, Tree Care, forest management and fire control - employers and organizations are striving to build efficient and cost effective training. In the onset, many are finding without utilizing simplistic training formats that information becomes overwhelming and is not used in the workplace and especially not passed along in the workplace efficiently. I feel this is likely because of the comfort level of the student to instruct and the lack of time planning to maximize the training to co-workers.

I have been involved in preparing instructors in chainsaw applications, safety and maintenance for over 30 years. Not bragging, but I have had some effect on just about every instructor out there in chainsaw training companies today. Those that have chosen to use the simple instruction techniques that Soren Eriksson instilled in me, have all done an awesome job in reducing chainsaw industry accidents and incidents across the country and are profitable doing it.

These instructor techniques are available to key chainsaw operators and communicators in your organization and or company. 

I would like to discuss with you how we can maximize chainsaw operator safety and productivity in your future!  Concepts and cost can vary.... don't hesitate to contact us today.

Saturday, May 17, 2014

Slow Down to Safely Speed Up...

Slow Down to Safely Speed Up…
by Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Have you ever noticed the teamwork that takes place around a worksite when the chainsaw fires up? Everyone wants to help and it seems that supervisors and onlookers  all want everyone doing something immediately to get the job done. This has been the storm cleanup scenario for many years. Get R Done….

I can remember watching and listening years ago to Soren Eriksson at logging operations. He is a master at watching how equipment and ground workers operate in production situations and be able to increase their productivity and function in short order. He used to count how many times the wheels on the machine rolled backward and not forward. He would discuss the steps taken up and down the tree limbing and bucking of the logs. “Sometimes you can slow down to increase production and maintain a safe worksite”, Soren would say, “They need to cool the operation down.”  Locate the bottleneck and back up from there. You can quickly figure out where production is being lost and safety is being compromised. 

I have noticed the same is true with storm debris cleanup. I’ve observed some crews that put as many saws running as possible when they hit the storm site. Others have a saw or two running, and three, four or five people running back and forth with limbs and wood pieces to clear the area. Most of the time the saw operator can’t even watch the cut he or she is making. They have to constantly be looking where the pullers and other equipment is located in their work area. Equipment is used to lift or hold the trunk or limb material for the saw operator to cut it without binding.

The job gets done - but can it be improved for safety and productivity? Let’s think through the players and processes…

Equipment on the Ground
What is the job of a skid steer or backhoe in the cleanup operation? What is its design advantage in the process? The equipment is designed to move, or remove, material from the site to a staging area, chipper or haul truck. The equipment’s purpose is not to hold limbs and logs, if so, it is an expensive wedge. I may be proven wrong, but I haven't seen an operators manual for this type of equipment to date that states that anyone should be on the ground next to it while it’s operating either. 

Chippers at the site, along with haul trucks, should be positioned to minimize work site loading effort and not cause extra work or bottlenecks. Placing a chipper or haul truck in the wrong position makes those back tracks and reverse roll counts go higher. You don't want pullers walking around debris or objects nor changing directions with limbs etc to deliver them to the chipper and so the same with a truck or staging pile.

Chainsaw Operators
The chainsaw operator is the key element in debris cleanup after storms. If the chainsaw operator is trained properly, he or she doesn't need large equipment or limb pullers to do their job. Equipped with a chainsaw of proper size and sharpness, a wedge and a hammer or axe, the sawyer can make small pieces of a tree in short order. It’s not necessary to have debris pullers holding limbs or clearing areas around the worksite while the chainsaw operator is cutting. A six foot chainsaw operator with a 20” saw can fall and cut someone eleven feet away in the work area. Give adequate time and distance in the work area.

It’s just too much for a chainsaw operator to have to concentrate on pressures, binds, rolls and movements while having to constantly be monitoring people and machines in the area.

Brush Pullers / Swampers
The Puller’s and Swamper’s are hard workers in the operation of clean up. These tasks are so important to moving the smaller material from the site to the staging area, chipper or haul truck. Their efficiency relies on the chainsaw operator to size the material properly and reduce the weight factors for easy handling. These workers are not there to hold material for the saw operator nor are they assistance for releasing stuck saws. Their function is cleaning up smaller material, what they do best!

We’ve outlined the players now what should the play plan look like?
The site layout is going to be the changing factor or variable at every storm site. Some sites will be so small the larger equipment and chipper will be limited in ideal location or utility. Some storm debris will be small and scattered, some will be large trees and stacked in multiple piles. Some will be combinations of… 

Sometimes a tractor or skid steer can be unloaded and open the area or pull the trees off the trail or roadway and the chainsaw operations can take place at another time. 

Often the chainsaw operations must section the trees for the equipment to move them because of area logistics and or too much weight and length.

Sometimes pullers can simply drag the debris from the site to a staging area without large equipment or chainsaw operations.

Timing the Phases
Slowing down or Cooling down the planned work at a storm site can mean more efficiency and productivity. How can we do this in the situation where there  are multiple trees or a large tree? Massive debris piles?

The objective is to clean up the mess and or get the road open for traffic or access. To time the process in our planning is the way to achieve maximum productivity without sacrificing safety. Timing doesn’t mean to stop watch the process, although that may be a great way to fine tune the process eventually, it simply means to separate the players to allow them to do their individual tasks efficiently and safely.

Separation may be two minutes, half a tree, it may be two trees or it may even mean two days. 

Ideal Plan
If everything is ideal it would render something like this in planning. It is imperative to maximize this plan to train the players adequately. Shoddy equipment operations and or maintenance will prove to break down the efficiency of the plan.

1. An equipment operator, chainsaw operator and a puller team would approach the storm debris site and thoroughly assess the area. First for safety and hazards. This may be the job of one experienced supervisor or safety leader/planner  that has extensive knowledge of the teams work skills and equipment. Any power line situations are addressed by electric authorities before entering work. 

2. Equipment would be staged and an approach plan should be laid out. This may be solely a chainsaw, haul truck and or chipper. May be the large equipment first.

3. Chainsaw operator’s then select the starting points taking in to consideration the ability of the pullers, chipper and haul size capabilities. They begin the cutting and limbing process maximizing the knowledge of proper length and weight considerations. Only one saw per work zone until the work is stabilized. Roll over capabilities are neutralized. It is Preferred to work from the butt to tip of the tree to lower higher limbs and stay clear of limb debris. This always leaves an open retreat if logs or limbs roll or shift.

4. Once the chainsaw operations have created distance from the designated staging area and or chipper, the pullers can commence to move the limbs and smaller logs to the planned areas or equipment. 

5. The larger logs and debris can then be moved by the skid steer and backhoe to the appropriate staging area or haul equipment. Steps 4 and 5 may be reversed according to the site and debris location. 

It looks busy when everyone is standing or moving around the saw operator but having everyone doing what they are designed to do without waiting increases the safety, productivity and gets the job done much quicker.

Slow down and safely speed up your clean up operations!

For more information on Storm Sawing Programs from Forest Applications Training, Inc. Contact  770-543-9862   Visit our website

Wednesday, October 23, 2013

What's the best.....

What's the best...
By Tim Ard, Forest ApplicationsTraining, Inc.

Every workshop I hear the same question. I mean every one... What is the best saw out there? What do you think is the best chainsaw made?

I usually answer it this way. Every manufacturer makes one or more great models. They have sold a lot of them. Some areas I go are strong in the sale of one brand, in another area a different brand. But, chainsaws do not make chainsaws, people do! I make this statement because it doesn't make any difference how good the saw you have is, or how many have been sold, at some point and time you are going to need a part or service. Understand, people become the important product selection criteria. The people at the outlet/dealership you purchased from must be able to supply the needed info, service part and or repair you need to keep things working. If not, any brand will make a pretty awesome looking door stop.

The key element in answering my fore mentioned question is the dealer or outlet for the equipment. Are they knowledgeable to help you make the purchase decision? Is there a selection available to meet your application correctly? Have they made a commitment to the product line and your particular model with parts and service training? Do they know more about the saw model than you do? These things will be more important to you than just the discounted dollar deal you received or maybe even your perceived brand loyalty selection criteria, i.e., Ford vs Chevrolet.

So, visit your local saw outlets. Check out the latest and greatest equipment available. Discuss with the personnel and or owner your needs and wants. Ask them to show you their parts on hand for the model you select. Tour their shop and meet the technicians. Have all your questions been answered?

Last question... Did they offer you training sufficient for your needs? Do you have a clear understanding of training needed to operate the piece of equipment for specific tasks you have planned? Personal protective equipment covered and available for your needs?

If so, Good Sawing!

Forest Applications Training Inc. specializes in training and consultation to make sure your purchase, chainsaw ownership and operations are safe and productive. Visit our website then contact us to organize your chainsaw operations and safety training. Email

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